The Souk
by wrongbus
While most countries are remembered most for their visual impact, it can be hard to separate the sights of Oman from its smells. A man often sells ripe pomegranates at the entrance to the Aldhalam souk at Muttrah but this is just a canapý, an amuse-nez, for what is to come. Omanis have been coaxing frankincense from the Boswellia carterii tree since the 6th century B.C, since well before the Magi wrote out their Christmas list, since it was more valuable than gold. It is still burned in every home and public building, to scent rooms, to ward off evil spirits, "to bring angels to your house," I was told. And along with rose oil, musk, sandalwood and its confrere, myrrh, it habitually perfumes corners of this souk, a sociable shopping-stop a world away in atmosphere from the darker, often more intimidating labyrinths of North Africa.According to my guidebook, there are four types of...