Bethlehem Things to Do

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One of the oldest churches in the world, built in the 4th century on the place believed to be the cave where Jesus was born. The church was rebuilt in the 6th century; the basic structure of that chuch is still what can be seen today. Roof and floor has been altered many times over the years.
The church became very important for the Crusaders, who crowned their kings here.
In april 2002, the church was on the news headlines; Palestinian gunmen sought refuge in the church from operation Defense Shield by the Israeli Defence Forces.
The church is located in the very centre of Bethlehem, on Manger square. Admission is free.

The ruins of King Herod's palace. Some of the buildings were on the ground, but the palace itself was constructed at the artificial hill. Now it is a national park (entrance NIS 22 for adults), and one additional thing you get are fantastic views to the East, which include Judea desert, Dead Sea and Jordanian mountains behind (see my travelogue). To get to Herodion, take a Palestinian taxi from Bethlehem and ask the driver to wait for 30 minutes at the parking lot. I paid NIS 100, it clearly could be negotiated down. On the picture: View from the hill to the West. The columns are visible.

Please, if you happen to be in the church and visit the Nativity Grotto (it is in the crypta, and the place when Jesus Christ was allegedly born is marked by a star) - DO NOT TAKE PICTURES, especially with a flash. It is a church, not a photographic studio. I was there for two hours, simultaneously with two organized groups - and I had to wait till every single person kissed the star and at the same time somebody else has taken the picture. After all, it is the place to pray.

Inside, in the sombre gloom, gold-coloured lamps hang from the ceiling and gaps in the wooden floor reveal the old mosaics underneath. The tiny Grotto of the Nativity is down some rather dark stone steps, a faded mosaic on the alter and the fourteen pointed silver star embedded in white marble marking the exact spot with the inscription: Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est - Here Jesus Christ was born to the Virgin Mary. When I was here last the grotto was extremely crowed, not for the claustrophobic.

Unfortunately, I didn't have time to visit the tomb although I could see the walled in area from the living room window of Nassra's condo, where we were staying overnight.

Legend has it that women who are experiencing fertility problems should go to the tomb and pray...Rachel was purported to be Jacob's favorite wife but for years, she was barren. Eventually she conceived a son - Benjamin - who, if I'm not mistaken, ended up being Jacob's favorite son, and brother to Joseph of the "Coat of Many Colors".

This site is revered by both Jews and Muslims, and although it is located in a Palestinian Territory, I recall that it was heavily guarded by the Israeli military.

Recommended for those of you who are hot and seeking cool shelter! Rumor has it that Mary and Joseph were fleeing to Egypt with Baby Jesus, and took refuge here (before it was a chapel, of course). While breastfeeding the Baby Jesus, some milk spilled to the floor and before you know it...the Milk Grotto Chapel was born!

It's just down the street from Manger Square and gives a chance to take in some local flavor during the brief walk. Admission is free.

Since you're in Israel/Palestinian Territories, chances are you're going to be running the gauntlet of religious must-sees, and this is one of the biggest ones. Look out for buses bringing in loads of tourists - you'll want to get inside that Church before you're mowed down by people swinging cameras.

Once inside, you'll find yourself heading down a stairway into a small, confined area that features an altar and I can't remember what else. I probably wasn't able to see much else on account of the little old ladies with Herculean strength, pushing and shoving and oohing and ahhing. I couldn't get out of there fast enough!

But at least I was able to check "birthplace of Christ" off my list.

The name says it all. I was half expecting to see those guys selling little airplanes made out of balsa-wood - you know, those same ones you find at the Trocadero Square in front of the Eiffel Tower.....

Manger Square is an open area in front of the Church of the Nativity. On one side you have your mosques, on the other side, the Church of the Nativity. There's no escaping the icons around here!

You can't miss it though, if only for the fact that you have to cross it to get from one side to the other.