From Israel the easiest way to get to Hebron is from Jerusalem. Catch bus number 21 from the main street right outside Damascus Gate, going to Beit Jala. Stay on until the final stop, where you're dropped by the side of the Hebron Road and there are buses and service taxis waiting to take you on to Hebron (Al Khalil in Arabic). The whole journey takes maybe an hour or so and will cost about 10 shekels. The bus drops you just north of the main souk and the city centre. It was strange to go on an Arab bus with hardly any passengers - certainly makes a change!
To get back to Jerusalem you can do the same journey in reverse. Or I'd recommend -if you want to go to Ramallah, there are plenty of service taxis on one of the main streets north of the souk. It's a very pleasant journey, although it can take quite a while depending on how strict the checkpoints are. The scenery is beautiful and you go past Bethlehem and the Herodian mountain. The cars can't go into Ramallah itself so they drop you at the Qalandia checkpoint.
Written Jan 19, 2005
I've travelled in quite a few countries where camels are a common sight, but very few tend to eat them. They can be very expensive and valuable animals so at most the meat is available only as a delicacy.
But in Hebron it's quite common to see skinned camels strung up at the butchers alongside goats and the other more usual meats.
Written Jan 18, 2005
While many of the people in Hebron are understandably wary of speaking to strangers, I found most people that I did talk to to be very friendly and welcoming. But at the end of the day this is one of the West Bank's numerous hotspots and its obviously best to be sensible. Walking through the souk with a Jewish prayer hat on your head, for example, would not be a good idea - ditto going to the Jewish settlements with a Palestinian headscarf!
Once you get into the Israeli part then the military presence is obvious and there are soldiers all over the place and snipers on many rooftops. It's safe but ultimately it's still a warzone so keep alert at all times. Many of the tourist attractions are heavily fortified and effectivley military zones so always be careful where you're walking. As a couple of soldiers warned me as I passed through their checkpoint, the army snipers near the Jewish settlements can be quite trigger happy and often shoot first, ask questions later.
Many of the sites are therefore not always accessible - the photo shows the signpost marking the way to the ancient city walls and Abraham's Spring. Which is very helpful, but unfortunately immediately next to it the road is closed off with barbed wire.
Written Jan 19, 2005
Favorite thing: see hebron,and the border between the arab city and the jewish district;I came by taxi from bethlehem,then by foot from the arab part of hebron,to the tomb of the patriarchs,then to qiryat-arba
Written Aug 24, 2002
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