Umayyad Mosque, Aleppo

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Since its construction in 1090 AD, the magnificent square minaret has become a defining symbol and a focal point for the city of Aleppo. It was added to the mosque by the Seljuks who renovated the Omayyad Mosque edifice that was left to them by the previous dynasty, the Hamdanids. The intricately carved 45-metre high minaret is a fine example of Seljuk-period architecture and is the sole intact survivor of the mosque from that era. Astonishingly, the minaret was not destroyed in the frequent invasions and pillaging which continued until the final Mongol invasion of 1401. Might the polyfoil arches on the minaret have inspired the Venetians, who had an important presence in Aleppo, to create their own version in gotico fiorito (i.e, Venetian Gothic) architecture? Who knows...

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As the name implies, this is Aleppo's mosque of mosques, built by Caliph Al Walid of Damascus' Umyyad Mosque fame, and Caliph Suleiman (c. AD 700). Historical buffs may be disappointed to know that nothing much of the original structures exist today due to countless destructions and rebuildings in the past. The sole remaining structure that survives today is the free standing minaret, which, with its intricate ornamentation, is a mesmerizing sight especially when lighted at night.

Entering the mosque won't cost you a single piastre, although donations are welcome. As always, observe proper etiquette when entering such holy Islamic places.

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As in most major mosques in the middle east, the courtyard of the Omayyad Mosque serves as a gathering place for the community, particularly families and children, who spend time socialising and resting. The spacious courtyard is covered with beautiful marble flooring arranged in complex geometric designs. It is surrounded by an arcade of pointed, and sometimes carved, arches and contains a domed ablution fountain and an ancient well. The ablution fountain is perhaps the oldest structure in the mosque, surviving from the 10th century reconstruction of the entire edifice by the Hamdanids after it was burnt down by the Byzantine emperor Nicephorus during his invasion of 962 AD. The arches, though, are from the last reconstruction of the mosque by the Mamlukes in the 13th century. It is said that the original 8th century courtyard rivalled that of the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus in splendour and contained equally magnificent mosaics, none of which exists today.

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A small chamber inside the Omayyad Mosque is believed to hold the remains of the prophet Zachariah, father of St John the Baptist. It is said that his remains were discovered in Baalbek in the 11th century and then brought to Aleppo. They were first kept inside a mosque in the Citadel before finally moving to the Omayyad Mosque. During busy times, it is hard to get near the chamber to see what is inside (as was the case when I visited), but one could admire the beauty of the portal and the ancient blue, white and green Kashan tiles surrounding it.

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Aleppo's Great Mosque or Al Jamaa al Kebir, has several alternative names, including, confusingly, like its twin mosque in Damascus, the Umayyad Mosque. The Great Mosque was built between 705 and 715 AD, making it just 10 years' younger than the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, which it looks very similar to.

The mosque is arranged into a rectangle of about 150m x 100m ,with a large courtyard in the middle . There is a gate in each of the four sides allowing access into the mosque through the courtyard, apart from the eastern gate which connects straight to the prayer hall.

Foreign visitors are charged a small admission fee, but are free to wander anywhere inside the mosque and take photos.

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The minaret of Aleppo's Great Mosque has been standing since 1090, when it replaced an even older one that had collapsed. This one has survived two major earthquakes, although, like the Tower of Pisa, it now leans slightly. It stands in the southern corner of the mosque. It is 47 m high, has six sections and 174 steps and it is in superb condition, which really is quite amazing for such a tall structure, nearly a thousand years old.

When in Aleppo you must visit the Great Mosque, sometimes it is called by the same name as the Mosque in Damascus - or as this one is older maybe I should phrase that the other way around!

As with all mosques, dress appropriatley, take off your shoes and dont visit during prayer times.

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The head of Zachariah, King of Israel and father of St. John the Baptist, is kept inside the Great Mosque. It is behind a gold grille. Youy can peer through this and see the head, wrapped in a green cloth, placed on top of an empty gold casket.