For those motoring enthusiasts: go by your own car or rent one! (I rented a surprisingly fast Megane - must have been a 2 Litre - through Hertz in Central Damascus.) This is definitely one of the best countries to be behind the wheel: perfect main roads network; great off-road (rock and sand) driving (although not for me this time); plains and some nice mountainous roads; no pesky policemen or gatsometers (well supposedly there may be some). Just anticipate to the max so as not to get involved in an accident. Alternative to Syria: Yemen.Riding a motor cycle would be at least as great. The risks are naturally higher.