Chora Church Museum - Kariye, Istanbul

Only the church, the center of a Byzantine monastery complex, survived. It was converted into a mosque after 1453. From 1948 it is a museum where were left no Islamic element, except the minaret.
The Greek word “Chora” refers to countryside. Taking in consideration the perimeter of the Constantine’s walls, the building was located out of the city which means that the originally building could it be possibly built around 4th century AD
( it is open from Thursday to Tuesday, between 9.00-16.00, the entrace fee is 10.000.000 TL and you can take picture but without blitz, if you use it, you will be very polite invite to leave the church, and because the guardians are not present all time, people use the blitz unfortunately, which will end in the near future that taking photos will be forbidden. It is located in Fener, from Edirnekapi, go few meters on Fevzi Pasa Caddesi and take left on the first street called Hocacakir Caddesi, which streches forward along the Theodosian’s walls. Than take right on the first street called Karyie Bostani which will lead you directly to the church)

The nowadays building dates from the XIth century and was restored between 1315-1321 by the theologian and philosopher Theodor Metochites, prime minister and first lord of treasury, one of the important representatives of the Byzantine elite. In the interior narthex, upon the nave’s door, there is Metochites with a big turban, humbly dedicating the church to the Christ.
Here you can find some of the most beautiful Byzantine mosaics and frescoes. A really MUST SEE!!!!*.
Through mosaics and frescoes, you can see how “ God made himself man for bringing redemption to the mankind “: The Christ’s Genealogy, Christ’s Childhood, the Life of Holly Virgin, the Wonders of Christ.
( it is open from Thursday to Tuesday, between 9.00-16.00, the entrace fee is 10.000.000 TL and you can take picture but without blitz, if you use it, you will be very polite invite to leave the church, and because the guardians are not present all time, people use the blitz unfortunately, which will end in the near future that taking photos will be forbidden. It is located in Fener, from Edirnekapi, go few meters on Fevzi Pasa Caddesi and take left on the first street called Hocacakir Caddesi, which streches forward along the Theodosian’s walls. Than take right on the first street called Karyie Bostani which will lead you directly to the church)

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The Chora Church, which today is known at the Kariye Camii, is one those monuments that bus groups frequent and justifably so. There has been a church here since the 4th century but the present building dates from 11th century. In the 14th century the interior of the church was restored by Theodore Metochites, Grand Logothete of the Treasury. It was under his patronage that the magnificent mosaics where created that adorn the interior walls and ceiling of the church. It is these mosaics that bring in the hordes of tourists that flock to the church.
The church was converted into a mosque by the Turks after they captured the city in 1453. As they did in the Aga Sofia, the place plaster all over the mosaics, hence covering them up for nearly 500 years. In the 1940's two American archeologists uncovered the mosaics and the Turkish government turned the place into a museum in 1947.
The images recreated in the mosaics depict scenes in the Life of Christ and stories from the Life of the Virgin Mary. Today they are considered to be amongst the most important such mosaics created during the Byzantine era.
I walked along the famous walls that at one time defended Istanbul before heading towards the Chora Church. It is easy to find because of the towering minerat that was built by the Turks. The neighborhood is not the nicest in Istanbul but relatively safe.
The museum is open 9:30am to 6pm and it cost $7.00 to visit

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Chora Church (Kariye) has a history dating back to early 5th century. However, the major part of the current building comes from 11th century. In the beginning of 16th century it was converted into a mosque by Ottoman rulers. In 1948, restoration works started and Chora Church ceased to serve as a mosque. From 1958 onwards, it started to be a museum which became a tourist magnet after Hagia Sofia. The amazing mosaics and frescoes are the highlights of this museum. I prefer not to get you bored with details on all these mosaics and frescoes as you can find these on many resources. I have uploaded 2 videos showing the interior details of Kariye and that could tell you more than I can write here. You can find details about the exact location, admission hours and fees from the website provided below. Just don't forget : Kariye is not to be missed!!!

Before we step inside, check out the flying buttresses around the backside, the only ones I know of in former Constantinople. Given the mosque's size, I hardly see that such supports are necessary, except when you recall the frequency of devastating earthquakes to this region.

Kariye Camii has the best collection of mosaics and early Christian artwork in the entire city, Saint Sophia included. Almost every square foot of this tiny structure seems to be adorned with Christian paintings or mosaics. My photographs do not do the place justice. Try to keep extremely still on your timed exposures. The museum wisely does not allow flash photography.

The Anastasis, depicting Christ dominant over Satan in chains and opening the tombs of Adam and Eve, is one of the most astonishing and important works of art in the whole of Europe. Unfortunately, it is not bathed in good lighting. For this you must hold your breath, set your camera to the proper exposure, and keep perfectly still by leaning against the wall. There is no more dramatic Christian image from the time of the emperors in all Istanbul.

More Christian artwork inside the museum. Certain relics are difficult to set up for a photo, while others which offer more room to manuever do not enjoy enough light for a timed exposure. Try to visit often and note what hours the sun enters the windows.

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I was there on Tuesday,so it's closed on Wednesdays,not Tuesdays,as some people say.Kariye is located at Edirnekapi section of Istanbul. The dictionary meaning of Kariye (Chora) is "outside of the city", or "rural" in old Greek. The existence of a chapel outside the city walls in very old is mentioned in some sources. The first Khora Church was built on the site of this chapel by Justinianus.

The building which managed to survive until the times of the Commenos with various additions and repairs, gained importance when the Imperial Palace Blakhernia near the city walls was expanded.
At the end of 11th century Maria Dukaina, the mother-in-law of Emperor Alexi I had it rebuild. The church has a kiborion shaped space whose dome is carried by four arches. During the Latin occupation of 1204 - 1261, both the monastry and the church became extremely run down. During the reign of Andronikos (1282 - 1326), one of the prominent names of the day, the writer, poet and the minister of treasury Theodore Methocite had the monastry and the church repaired towards 1313, and had an annex to the north of the building, an outer narthex to the west and a chapel (Parekklesion) to the south. These new additions were decorated with frescoes and mosaics. Parekklesion, which is a long single naved chapel going along the southern faзade, is built above a basement floor. It is partially covered with a dome and the remaining sections are covered by vaults. It has a single abscissa. The outer narthex which runs along the full western facade forms the present faзade. The northern wing is only an insignificant corridor. The central dome has a high drum. It is a Turkish period restoration and is made of wood. Outer faзades are given plasticity and movement with round arches, half braces, niches and rows of stone and brick. The eastern faзade is finished with abscissa extending to the exterior. The middle abscissa is supported with a half arched brace.

The building was used as a church after the conquest of Istanbul but was converted into a mosque in 1511 by the Visier Grand Hadým Ali Pasha, who later added a school and a alm kitchen next to it. After the conversion, the mosaics and frescoes were covered, sometimes by wooden blinds and sometimes by whitewashing over them. All the mozaics and frescoes were uncovered with the work carried out by the American Institute of Byzantine Research between 1948 - 1958. Chora mosaics and frescoes are the most beautiful examples of the last period of Byzantine art (14th century). They show a striking similarity. The monotonous background of the former period cannot be seen here. The concept of depth, recognition of the placticity and movement of the figures and the elongation in the figures are the characteristic of this style. Scenes from life of Jesus are given on the outer narthex while the inner narthex has scenes from the life of Madonna.On the portal of the door joining the outer to the inner narthex, there is Christ the "Pantocrator". On the left the scenes depict the birth of Jesus, population cencus being carried out under the supervision of Governor Cyrinus, the angel telling Joseph to leave taking Mary with him, the multiplication of loaves of bread, water turning to wine and on the right side scenes such as messanger kings informing about the birth of Christ, healing of the stroke victims and the massacre of children.

The most beautiful mosaic on the inside is Deisis. There is Jesus in the center with Mary on the left, below Mary, Isaac Commenus and a nun on the right of Jesus. This woman is the daughter of the Mikhael Palaiologos VIII. She was married to the Mongolian Prince Abaka Khan and following her husband's death returned to Ýstanbul and became a member of a religious order. In this section, under the dome there is Jesus and his ancestors are shown in the segments. On the portal of the church proper, there is Christ in the middle and on the left Theodoros Metochites who has restored the church and adorned it with the mosaics presenting a model of the church. The life story of Mary, which is not included in the Bible is taken from subjects based on the Apostles. At the inner narthex the scenes about Mary can be followed depicting her birth, her first steps, Gabriel telling her that she shall have a child, Mary buying wool for the tebernacle and others. Mosaic above the inner portal of the entrance to the main church depicts the death of the Virgin, Madonna bearing the child Jesus and a Saint. Parekklesion is totally decorated with frescoes. The Anastasia (rebirth) scene seen on the abscissa is a masterpiece. The last judgement above it is shown here in full. It is known that the niche on the right and left sides of the Parekklesion are graves. On the dome of the Parekklesion there is Mary and the child Jesus and 12 in the segments.

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The Museum of Chora or Kariye Museum is a treasure trove of wonderful mosaics and frescoes which depict various Biblical stories. Those related to the Virgin Mary are particularly interesting and the Dome depicting Jesus and his ancestors is also stunning. The word, Chora means land, country, and a suburb. The monastery was therefore named because it was built outside the city walls built by Emperor Constantine.It was originally built by Emperor Theodosius in 413 AD but over time rebuilt again rebuilt by numerous Emperors. The mosaics and frescoes were added in 1312. After 1453 when Istanbul was conquered by the Turks it was converted into a mosque and then a museum. Between 1948-1958 the American Byzantine Institute completed restoration of the museum.