Whirling Dervishes, Istanbul
Unfortunately I was not allowed to shoot photos inside the Museum House in order not to harm the ancient objects interior, but its a very worth museum to visit, with the explanations of old Dervish history and concerning subjects ...
It has a great and quiet large garden area, with several tombs of previous religious Sheiks and their followers.
Here you can see more photos on my "Travelogues" of the "Mawlavi House Museum" ... :
The oldest "Mawlavi House" in Istanbul is at Galata ridge at the top of the uphill which leads to Yuksekkaldırım Street. It was built in 1491 as a hunting farm and throughout the centuries it has been rebuilt and renovated many times and opened as museum in 1975 as an association which reflects the culture and art of its own age.
Contribution of "Mawlavi House" to Turkish culture that led to music and science together are very important during the centuries. So many people gathered around the Mawlavi Houses trained on miscellaneous branchies of art.
Enjoy ... :)
Dances of Colours consists of 2 activities, The Ceremony of Dervishes at Dervish Dede Efendi House and Dervish Ceremony followed by Turkish dances at FKM Theater. They organise in 2 different places because they want you to feel the culture in the right atmosphere.
I have seen the one with folk dances at FKM 2 years ago and it was amazing, professional dances, good stage, really authentic programme.
In september, I saw the dervishes with live music in a typical historical Turkish house. It is in the house of Dede Efendi( 18th- century Turkish musician who is considered as Turkish Beethoven) with his wonderful pieces. They give all this information before the ceremony starts.
I have seen dervish ceremony in other places in Turkey. On 17th of december, They have the big ceremony in Konya. As an event it is big and professional but it is a show with politicians, tv cameras etc... In the other places, none of them give you the feeling of this special culture. You can even find in restaurants, tea gardens. I dont want to say that this is the best, but I can say that in Dede Efendi House:
you feel very close to them,
you feel the spirit of this important musician,
it is very central but also in a typical Ottoman neighborhood( of course, you need to fo follow the map correctly),
the musicians and the dervishes are very good,
You can also discover the beautiful poetry of Rumi from a slayt show of 20 min,
The price is affordable(45 and 35 TL)
It is every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday at 19.30
For the performance dates at FKM Theater, you need to contact them, it is not very often.
You may see just 1 time in your life, try to feel it.
Mevlana Jalaluddin Rumi stands for love and ecstatic flight into the infinte.
Rumi is a poet and a spiritual master who founded the Mevlevi Sufi order which is a more mystical side of Islam.
A Whirling Dervish is a SEMAZEN.
The slender hat represent a tomb / death of the ego. It is called a HIRKA.
The skirted gown is a TENNURE.
The drum beat represents the Divine command "BE"
The sheepskin that is laid on the floor to which the semazen bow is a post in acknowledgement of the centre of Divine Truth within the heart of each.
Arms crossed over their chests - the position indicates they resemble one, signifying the unity of God.
As the semazen whirl their right hand is opened upwards and their left hand is downturned. This means "from God we receive, to man we give; we keep nothing to ourselves".
There a several cycle during a Sema. Each cycle has a different meaning.
1. The Dervishes view all worlds. Freeing themselves of any doubt.
2. The Dervishes become at one with Divine Unity.
3. They are cleansed.
4. They arrive at non-existence within Divine Existence.
If you entered the Sema you will leave both worlds:
the world of the Sema is outside both worlds.
To give up one's existence to become non-existent in God...
If you get a chance to witness a Sema I thoroughly recommend that you do. It is a beautiful experience and even for the non religious (like myself), the chance is that you will be moved, spiritually and leave the Sema with a sense of inner calm. It is likenothing I have ever been witness to before and was definitely a highlight of my journey around Turkey.
There are many places around Istanbul where you can go and see the dance of the Dervesh whilst eating your meal and drinking your...alcohol!
Having been to an actual ceremony which moved me beyond my comprehension the only reason I went to one of these "shows" was so that I could take some photos!!!
The setting of the "dance" I went to was beautiful - up on a terrace with a full moon, glowing next to the dome of the mosque opposite... but there was no "experience" as there was at the ceremony... people clinked knives and forks and drank and spoke to the waitors to order more...
As I say it is good for taking photos and/or if you have children too young to go to a proper ceremony.
If you entered the Sema you will leave both worlds:
the world of the Sema is outside both worlds.
I saw the Mevlevi Sema Ceremony at the Hocapsa Culture Centre which (in 2008) was converted from a 550 year old Turkish Bath. It is a beautiful setting for this ceremony. The Ceremony lasts 1 hour and is split into two. The first section is a Sufi music concert which is something of beauty to the ears... close your eyes and be transported somewhere higher....
The second section is the Whirling Ceremony which is graceful and spiritual journey. It ends with a reading from the Koran.
Photography is not allowed. You must keep silent throughout and there is strictly no clapping.
Seating is numbered and is in a horse-shoe around the "stage" on which the Whirling Ceremony takes palce. The Sufi's are on a low stage at the front of this. Children under 7 years of age are not permitted to attend.
The ceremony starts at 19:30 (except Tuesday and Thursday) but the doors are open from 18:30 and there are free refreshments. NB the waiting area is small and lacking in seats - it is not a comfortable hour to wait!
I was able to book my tickets at my hotel but you can arrange them direct.
They enter, the Sufi's begin, the Dervishes finish and then they leave... they leave you transfixed and in awe.
I am not a religious person but I can say two things 1) This ceremony moved me in a spiritual way, I left with a sense of inner calm. 2) Experiencing this ceremony was definitely a highlight of my journeys around Turkey.
Please note the photos I have uploaded on this tip were taken elsewhere as photography is NOT permitted here.
Sufi Music Concert/Whirling Dervishes There are a number of places that you can see this religious group in action. We saw them at the train station at Eminonu. We booked the tickets at the train station. The performance lasts about an hour. You get a small book which provides a brief explanation and history of Rumi the founder of the Mevlevii Sufi order and the Sema (whirling ceremony). Some tips: get there before 7pm and as you walk in sit to the right. Sufi Group of Istanbul Galata Mevlevi Lodge Every Sunday Wednesday and Friday at 19:30
We saw a whirling dervishes ceremony at Press Museum last June. The event was awesome and a great experience. The venue was really original, not established for touristic purposes. The dervish dancers are amazing, whirling hour hours.
If you want to see the Whirling Dervishes you mıght as well see a still/pıcture of them as thats all you wıll see when you go to see them for 25 lıra at the railway statıon. The performance ıs essentially ın an old railway waiting room wıth plastic lawn chairs arranged ın a c shape ın two rows. There ıs hardly any cross ventılatıon ın the room and ıt was the height of summer. Not only is there no air conditioning but not even a fan. There was a chandelier and wall lıghts but many of the bulbs on them didn't work.
The show ıs some form of Sufi rıtual for tourıts but no one will explain to you what ıt is all about and what they are doing. The fırst half hour ıs taken up by musıcıans playıng some nondescript monotonous , nonstop Turkısh musıc. Thıs ıs followed by a group of eıght dancers ın traditional cloaks and caps arrıvıng very solemnly and bowıng to each other over 50 tımes through the show. After a very slow walk ın a cırcle they whirl wıth theır hands above theır shoulders ıncessantly for 5 mınutes, lıke wind up dancing dolls lıterally. They do thıs wıth theır eyes almost shut ın a trance or medıtatıve gesture, probably to avoid getting dızzy, for 5 mınutes. Then they stop, take a slow walk ın a cırcle again and start whirling once agaın. Thıs happens altogether 4 tımes and then they leave. There are no other actıons or explanations. The only good that comes out of the whirling ıs a lıght breeze when theır traditional skirts whirl up. Not worth the tıme or the money nor the dıre ınvonvenıence.
Sema is the inspiration of Mevlana Celaleddin Rumi (1207-1273) as well as part of Turkish custom, history, beliefs and culture... It symbolizes in seven parts the different meanings of a mystic cyle to perfection ( ASCENSION- MIRAC)
Contemporary science definetely confirms that the fundemantel condition of our existence is to revolve . There is no object, no being which does not revolve and the shared similarity among beings is the revolution of the electrons and protons in the atoms, which constitute the structure of the smallest particle to the stars far in the sky. As a consequence of this similarity, everything revolves and man carries on his life, his very existence by means of the revolution in the atoms, structural elements in his body, by the circulation of his blood, by his coming from the Earth and return to it, by his revolving with Earth itself.
However, all of these are natural unconscious revolutions. But man is the possessor of a mind and intelligence which distinguishes him from and makes him superior to other beings. Thus the whirling dervish or SEMAZEN causes the mind to participate in the shared similarity and revolution of all other beings.
The Sema ceromony represents a mystical journey of man's spiritual ascent through mind and love to PERFECT(Kemal) . Turning towards the truth , and arrives to the PERFECT. Then he returns from this spiritual journey as a man who reached maturity and a greater perfection, so as to love and to be of service to the whole creation ,to all creatures without discriminating in regard to belief, class, or race. .. The dervish with his head-dress (his ego's tombstone), his white skirt (his ego's shroud) is spiritually born to the truth , by revolving his black cloak, he journeys and advances to spiritual maturity through the stages of the SEMA.
Originally , Dervish Dance is performed in KONYA ( u can check my KONYA page)... However there also some ceromonies that u can find in ISTANBUL.... e.g GALATA MEVLEVIHANESI...
Entrance is 25 ytl
First some practical information:
The Galata Mevlevihanes or Galata Mevlevi Lodge is also called 'Museum of Court Literature' and is near Tunel, in Beyoglu (there is a website link bottom of page).
Dervish orders were banned under Ataturk - hence the 'official' name of this place.
The ceremony and concert takes place on the second & last Sundays of the month, May to October at 5pm, with an earlier 3pm start November - April. Tickets are relatively expensive 25ytl (as of Dec 2005) but I would not have missed this experience for the world. Gets quickly booked up, so try to buy in advance. December is their holy period, and there wiill be events at different times then.
The lovely old lodge has a shady garden with an old ottoman cemetary next door. Inside the galleried hall there are displays of instruments. Sufi costumes and writings.
The name is of the lodge is taken from the title by which the C13th mystical Sufi poet, Rumi, was known: Mevlana (leader). It is a movement founded on the concept of love and communion with god- the dervish ceremony being one way of finding union.
Rumi wrote in a way that can seem very mysterious, because " just as the ocean can only fill the jug to its capacity, so Mevlana can only fit our words and perception in proportion to our capacity".
The event began with a concert of Sufi music - then the ceremony itself took began. It is hard to describe this extraordinary event. It has a grace and harmony that I have not expected. Every part of the ceremony, from costume and hats to order of events, has symbolic meaning - this is explained in the leaflets you will be given when you arrive.
Please don't take flash photos (they ask you not to): take away only the memory!
The Wherling Dervishes I saw where at a hall on the side of the hill north of the Golden Horn. It has in a baroque style octagonal hall. There was a traditional ochestra. There was no introduction or explaination, just the cerimony. It was fantastically interesting. The setting couldn't have been better.
The Dervishes are part of a mystical sect of Islam started by the famous poet of love, Rumi. There is a group of dervishes who perform by the Blue Mosque, but we were told on good authority that the group that performs by Galata Tower was more authentic. Every aspect of the Sema ceremony illustrates an aspect of our path to connection with god, ourselves, and our world. Absolutely mesmirizing and awe-inspiring to watch
We wanted to see a folk dance and our hotel recommended a program put on by a local student dance troop. I don't remember the exact cost of admission, but it was very reasonable. They presented dances from all over the region. Great experience.
The building of the monastery of Mevlevi brotherhood houses a collection of Sufi musical instruments, dervish accessories and manuscripts of turkish poetry.
Twice a month there are concerts and perfomances of Sufi music and dances.
This is the place where Whirling takes place. Very quite and peacuful place for peaceful hearts... GALATA MEVLEVIHANESI...