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Just wander around for hours, do some shopping (of course don't forget to bargain), have some tea near Bab el-Yemen (Yemen Gate), have lunch or dinner at Arabia Felix hotel.
Old Turkish and Jewish areas are off the beaten track: not as scenic as the Old City, but interesting enough (head due West from the Old City).
Excursion:
Dar al-Hajjar (Palace on the Rock) at Wadi Dahr, 15 minutes northwest of Sana'a. Built in 1935 as one of the (many) residences of the last imam, Yahya.
Daytrips:
1) Sana'a-Amran (Old City)-Thula (little town restored by UNESCO)-villages of Hababa, Shibam (not to be confused with Shibam - Hadramawt) and Kawkaban- return to Sana'a. Net driving time: 3 to 3 1/2 hours (plus sightseeing time).
2) Up and down to Manakha and Hajjara in the Harraz mountains, excellent for walking trips from one hour to many days (Sana'a-Hajjara takes 2 hours over good but spectacular winding roads).
3) Rada (beautiful mosque restored by Dutch development cooperation) and Hammam Damt (weird stand-alone volcano one can easily climb). Net driving time: 5-6 hours.
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Built for the last imam, Yahya in 1935 (in North Yemen still the Middle Ages) the palace - Dar al-Hajjah - is one of Yemen's landmarks. In the proximity of Sana'a it provides a convenient excursion for those who are confined to Sana'a due to lack of time: it is located in a rural setting quite different from the hustle and bustle of the big city.
There is not much to see inside, except for a good collection of period photgraphs taken by the Dutch diplomat/explorer Adriaan van der Meulen who travelled extensively in the whole of Yemen in the 1930s and '40s. Nice views from the ramparts. YER 500 (eur 2) entry fee.
Getting there.
From the Old City turn West (Zubeiry St towards Hodeidah). At the 60 Metre Road intersection turn right until you reach the roundabout (entrance to Sana'a U. on your right). Turn left and continue for several kms. At the next roundabout continue straight (turning left would take you to Shibam/Kawkaban, Thula, At-Taweela, Al-Mahweet). Directions: Descending into the wadi the pavement ends. Continue a little further, keeping right you'll soon reach Dar al-Hajjah.
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As any arab city, the most interesting and colourful part of the town is the suq.
Here it's in the middle of old town, and walking around it gives you an idea of the local life as you will hardly see any tourist around.
The difference betwen this suq and the other ones I visited in other arab citis is the total lack of pressure, I have never been asked to stop at a shop or to buy anything: incredible but true you can stop at watching crafts without been asked to enter and buy, sometime it's even hard to find the owner of the shop even if you are interested in buying something.
The only pity is that in all the old town and so in the suq there is no good place to stop and have a tea or some water. Leave a Comment Address: old town
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Going around the old town of the old town, just walking and looking around is the only way to explore and above all enjoy this incredible city.
Any single house, any single side of the house, any window, surprises you in a different way.
It's just like walking in another time, another world, another atmosphear, this is the city where I felt further from home and it's a great sensation. Leave a Comment
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THIS IS NOT THE NATIONAL MUSEUM! The Museum of Traditional Arts & Crafts is housed in the former residence of an Imam. I got quite excited about visiting this living history museum after speaking to an English student studying Arabic here. It is just of the main Midan al-Tahrir (Tahrir Square) and before you get to the National Museum. I got up early and arrived at the opening time of 8am. I went past the massive fortified door (pictured) into the courtyard and expected to start my tour. Then I found out it is under refurbishment!
If you do get inside, it is supposed to be not only displays of traditional art and craft, but also a living example of life in one of the towers of the Old Town. There is an example of the traditional ‘Mafraj’ – a sitting room at the top of houses where men go to chew Qat and talk about the issues of the day. I only saw the outside of the building which is a great example of the ‘San’ani’ style of what I would call a medieval skyscraper. They are built with an unknown quantity of rock, stone, bricks, mud (yes mud) and paint. This one is well preserved, but many in the old town lean or have literally fallen into dust.
I am told the displays are fantastic. I hope it is now back open to the public. Leave a Comment Directions: In the North corner of Midan al-Tahrir (Tahrir Square). To the left of the Al-Mutawakil Mosque.Website: NONE
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QAT (pronounced Kat) is the very soul of Yemen. It is not just leaves which are chewed on; it is the way of life, friendship culture and conversation. At first glance it looks like long green leaves stuffed in huge amounts into the mouth and bulging to one side. It was not until I was asked by the receptionist at my hotel to go to the market with him and buy some Qat did I understand how important those little green leaves are to the Yemeni people. When I first sat down to chew my Qat the other men asked how much I paid and inspected my purchase. Passing approval for quality and a good bargain, they even selected the leaves for me. Even after painfully bulging my left cheek, they still insisted that I must stuff more. This results in the slow chewing that you see of Qat. With that much in your mouth, there is no other choice. I thought is tasted similar to grass. It is chewed and dissolves over time. There is no spitting or reason to do so. And then the conversation began. Supposedly it is mildly narcotic, but I do not agree. The leaves are grown on a tall tree and the crop is worth millions of dollars to the economy. It is priceless in social circles. Qat is the reason for almost all gatherings other than prayer and no social function would be without it Leave a Comment
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Unfortunately most travel agencies itineraries include a stay in Sana'a for just 1-2 days. This is big mistake. Sana'a old city is almost a fairytale and you never get bored looking at it!
By day and particularly by night.
As safety is not a major issue, walking around the old city after sunset is an unforgettable memory. The beautiful tower houses are nicely illuminated, the narrow streets are almost desserted...Very romantic!
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If you want to enjoy a view over the roof tops of Old Sana'a then visit Taj Talha Hotel. Get there at dawn or dusk for nice views. Unfortunately despite the excellent view, the management doesn't seem to take advantage of it. There should have been a nice terrace bar. instead of that some chairs. Complete neglect!! There is only a spacious indoors mafraj but with limited views.
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If you visit Yemen, you MUST take home a Jambiya or 2. The Jambiya is worn by virtually every man in Yemen. They are everywhere! If you do buy and take home one or 2, do not forget the belt. They are often very ornate and hand woven. The absolutely huge versions worn by men on the street are razor sharp and are proper weapons. The price would not be cheap and the airlines might have something to say about it being in your luggage. Smaller versions (pictures) are more decorative than functional, but only cost about $5 - if that. So take a bit of Yemeni culture home with you! Leave a Comment Directions: At various shops everywhere!
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The best bird's eye view over the old town is from the top floor of the Taj Talha Hotel, near the Qubat Talha mosque. There's a terrace on top, and a few tables and plastic chairs - so that the terrace doubles as a bar/coffee place. it takes 6 long flights of uneven stairs to reach it, but the sights over the old town is definitely worth it.
Everyone is free to go up to the terrace - since the management is very accommodating - and anyway you can still say you are going to stay for a drink. Apparently the views are even better at sunset. Leave a Comment Address: talha streetPhone: 287130Directions: in the old town, near the Qubat Talha mosque
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