| Reviews and photos of Province of Newfoundland and Labrador attractions posted by real travelers and locals. The best tips for Province of Newfoundland and Labrador sightseeing. Map |
 | Province of Newfoundland and Labrador Things To Do | Tips 1 - 10 of 92 |  | The Long Range Mountains comprising this peninsula of Newfoundland were formed hundreds of millions of years ago during the geological changes associated with the formation of the Earth's continents as they are presently formed. During the Ice Ages, huge glaciers carved 'fjords' with 2300-ft sheer cliffs (700-m) , like these ones, in the resulting mountain ranges. Later, as the climate warmed, the glaciers melted and the surface of the earth gradually rebounded as the great weight was removed. As a result, these fjords were cut off from the ocean itself, forming trapped bodies of water, called 'Ponds' in Newfoundland. After leaving the Tablelands, we arrived at the entrance to Westen Brook Pond and then left the car park to walk a short distance inland to the interpretive centre (3rd photo). From the centre, there is a very interesting 30-40 minute (3 km) trail walk across the now intervening lowlands before you reach the edge of the trapped fjord seen in the distance. The lowlands actually comprises a coastal bog and three small wooded limestone ridges - with various interpretive signs located at strategic intervals. If you are lucky, you may even come across a Moose feeding in the bogs! The boat tour cruised up the 16-km (10-mile) lake with a running commentary on the various waterfalls, cliff features and wildlife that is encountered. The second photo shows the view as we leave the far end of the lake, where a hiking trail connects to the 707-metre (2300 foot) Gros Morne Mountain in another section of the park. Herds of caribou still use the uplands of Gros Morne as their breeding ranges. Arrangements can be made to hike into or out of this spot and then use the boat tour as a one-way passage on the lake. The cold 165-m (500 ft) deep waters of the lake are home to Arctic Char, Atlantic Salmon and Brook Trout. Leave a Comment Address: In Gros Morne National ParkDirections: About 20-km (12 miles) north of the village of Rocky Point.
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A half-hour or so after leaving Deer Lake, you will enter Gros Morne National Park, one of Canada's best. Inside the southern edge of the park is an amazing geological wonder called the Tablelands. This, in fact, was the main reason why the park was made a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Tablelands is a 260-million year old chunk of lava from the earth's crust that broke off and was thrust to the surface during collisions between the constanting moving tectonic plates in this part of the world. There are a few other places in the world that also boast similar formations, in Oman, Cyprus, Tibet and southern Chile. The rocks are composed of peridotite but, when thrust to the surface, they change to the mineral serpentine. Due to weathering effects, serpentine turns to a tan colour, giving this huge formation its distinctive look. The chemical composition of the rocks is also not very condusive to plant life, consequently it appears to be a barren moon-like surface in comparison to the surrounding spruce forests. Here, I am sitting on the back of our car at a rest-site in the Park, but we really enjoyed our drive up onto and around this amazing chunk of rock! The other photo shows how the Tablelands sticks out from the crowd when viewed from the other side of Bonne Bay. Leave a Comment Directions: On the south side of Bonne Bay in Gros Morne National Park. Only a short drive from Woody Point.
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On our second day in Newfoundland, we drove northwest on the TransCanada Highway for another hour before reaching Corner Brook, the major hub in this part of Newfoundland. Although the city is based on the economics of a large pulp & paper mill that has been running since the 1920s, Corner Brook is situated in a beautiful valley where the wide Humber River estuary meets the Long Range Mountains. We found the city to be quite modern with well laid out streets and highways, plus a couple of large shopping mall areas where we could stock up on supplies and get some films developed. While waiting, we did a little driving tour of the city, eventually reaching the pinnacle of Crow Hill Park on the western outskirts of the city. The view from here was really spectacular as we looked out over both the city and the Humber River but, with the wind really blowing, one had to be very careful on this rocky outcrop with a steep dropoff of what looked like several hundred feet! A very interesting Memorial to Capt. James Cook of the Royal Navy is located in this park. As it turns out, Capt. Cook found Corner Brook to be an excellent base when he charted this part of the coast in 1767. Cook was marine surveyor of Newfoundland from 1763 to 1767. His detailed charts made life safer for mariners, and his work was so good that many of his charts can still be used today. Of course, Cook went on to claim Australia for England, sailed up the west coast of North America to Alaska and explored all over the Pacific Ocean among his many feats. We soon continued onward toward the town of Deer Lake, where we finally branched off the TransCanada Highway and headed toward the coast for our real target - the mountainous Northern Peninsula with its two UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Leave a Comment Directions: Head west from the paper mill in town and climb the city streets to the highest point you can see.
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Continuing our drive north from Port au Choix, we decided to veer right just short of St. Barbe, as we headed for the eastern side of the Northern Peninsula for the first time. Our route took us through the small village of Roddickton before we reached the coastal fishing village of Englee. This whole northern tip of the peninsula is marshy ground with thick stands of Black Spruce trees, a paradise for Moose from what we observed as we drove through this part of the island! Moose are not native to Newfoundland, but four animals were brought over from New Brunswick and released in 1904 in an attempt to increase the local food supply in this harsh climate. The result is amazing, with Newfoundland now full of these huge animals - 127,000 of them at last count. You will see the occasional one along the highway through the daytime but they are out in force at night - on the highways too. At night, they are dark (hard to see), their eyes do not reflect headlights back at you and they are heavy (typical males weigh about 1200-lb or 550-kg) when they fall onto your windshield and crush it. Gros Morne National Park has a sign with the latest statistics for the year (13 moose and 7 caribou accidents so far that year in the park). We saw 6 Moose during our day trips - keep off the roads at night for the same reason (PS - I hit one in Maine on Interstate-95 so I know what they can do)! Leave a Comment
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At 109 feet from the ground to the light itself, Point Amour lighthouse is the tallest in Atlantic Canada. Today it is designated a Provincial Historic Site. The residential part of the lighthouse, now renovated and partially restored to the 1850s period, houses an extensive series of exhibits portraying the maritime history of the Labrador Straits. The Point Amour station has figured prominently in the lives of southern Labradorians for well over a century. Today, it stands as a symbol of our maritime heritage and diverse history - a history which has always been intimately linked with the sea. My parents actually own and operate a small craft shop at this historic site and I have spent a lot of time here. So I can also attest to the great walking trails in the area and the spectacular close up views of whales and ice bergs that are in the area all spring, summer and fall. Leave a Comment Directions: In the Labrador Straits region in between the communities of Forteau and L'anse au Loup. Continue on just past L'anse Amour. It is visable once you hit Forteau.Website: http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/4e22e/ddf07/
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Our first night north of Gros Morne was spent at the fishing town of Port aux Choix, about halfway up the Northern Peninsula. The earliest European presence here dates to the 1500's when the town received its name, Portuchoa, meaning "little port" from Basque fishermen who operated in the area. Although the weather deteriorated into showers and sometimes outright rain here, we were able to squeeze in a couple of activities. Our first visit was to the recently opened museum displaying the rich archeological finds discovered here regarding the earliest inhabitants of the region, thanks to the prehistoric coastline having risen above sea level when the glaciers melted. As their literature describes it: "This site commemorates the Maritime Archaic Indians who lived from the forest and marine resources of the Atlantic coast from Labrador to Maine between 7000 and 3000 years ago. Later, about 2500 years ago, the Groswater Paleo Eskimo, known as expert seal hunters, also inhabited the area. More recently, by A.D. 500, a Canadian Arctic people known as the Dorset Paleo Eskimo had arrived as far south as Newfoundland, of which they were the principal inhabitants for over 700 years. The Dorset occupation of Newfoundland marked the most southerly expansion of Paleo Eskimo peoples and the large habitation site discovered at nearby Phillips Garden provides detailed evidence of how they lived." The weather let up for a bit, so we struck out on the 4-km Phillips Garden trail for ourselves to have a look. The terrain along the trail is flat as it follows the coastline to the light tower at Point Riche. It is a fairly easy hike except for a couple of areas where you have to walk over limestone rocks. By exploring the low limestone cliffs, one can discover relics of the ancient past. Fossils are abundant throughout this limestone and the area's low vegetation with its unique array of wildflowers is in part due to the calcium-rich soil. Leave a Comment Directions: On the west coast of the Northern Peninsula, about half way between Gros Morne National Park and the Viking settlement at the tip.
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Jutting out into the Gulf of St. Lawrence from the town of Stephenville, is the Port au Port Peninsula, a geological feature that provides one of the few safe anchorages along this rugged western coast of Newfoundland. This area has a long and interesting history, starting with the arrival of Basque and French fishermen in the 1500-1600s (fishing the Grand Banks). Over the next hundred years, the initial rough fishing camps became permanent settlements with so much activity that this coast of Newfoundland remained the "French Shore" by the 1763 Treaty of Paris, even though France had lost the war with Britain. Mixed in with the French and Basque settlers were the Acadian French from New Brunswick and Nova Scotia who had been expelled from their settlements by the victorious British (and some Acadians went to Lousiana where they became 'Cajuns). The result is that Port au Port is today an interesting melting pot of various cultures, including strong English influences due to the area's isolation from other French speaking people, as well as the establishment of a large American airbase in Stephenville during and after World War II. From these bygone days in history, the small islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon, off the coast about 200 miles away to the southeast, are still the sovereign territory of France. As for us, we enjoyed a short drive around the peninsula taking in the sights before retiring to our first Newfoundland accommodations for the evening, the fancy Spruce Pine Acres Country Inn. It has all the amenities of deluxe beds, mini-refrigerator, plush bathroom, etc. but at US$120 per night was a bit steep for our tastes. From that point on, we stayed in 'normal' B&Bs for less than half the cost. Here, I am sitting on their extensive lawns overlooking St. George's Bay while I sip a bit of wine. Leave a Comment
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Practically within walking distance of our B&B in Saint Anthony is the second of Newfoundland's UNESCO World Heritage Sites. L'Anse aux Meadows was first visited by Europeans when a 30-man Viking ship from Greenland, captained by Leif Eriksson, landed there during a voyage of discovery to the west (1000 AD). They found the area and climate to be so hospitable that they decided to spend the winter there, before sailing back to Greenland in the spring with a load of lumber and wild grapes that they had found growing nearby (hence the name 'Vinland' in the Viking Chronicles). As word got out in Greenland, more ships sailed west and eventually the settlement consisted of 8 wood-framed huts overlaid with sod roof and walls. There are even records of the birth of the first European in the New World taking place at this location (a boy named Snorri). However, this area had also been used by the native population (called 'Skraelings' by the Vikings) since about 6000 BC. The result was eventual conflict and deaths, culminating in a retreat back to Greenland by the heavily out-numbered Vikings. L'Anse aux Meadows would gradually decay for almost 1000 years before it was once again brought back to life. Today, Parks Canada administers the site and puts on wonderful demonstrations of how life took place inside the huts. These huts had long narrow fireplaces in the middle, used for heat, light and cooking (note the roof-vent in the photo). In addition to the buildings, there are other sites that show the original foundations of other buildings. Admission is US$6 for adults, open from June 1 - Oct. 14. Leave a Comment Directions: The far northwestern tip of the island of Newfoundland.
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Continuing my line of tips on aboriginal culture in the Labrador region this tip gives more information on the Inuit of Labrador. Inuit People of Labrador Archaeological evidence suggests that there were many different groups of Inuit living in Northern Labrador about four thousand years ago. The Inuit People are found in many other places around the world such as Soviet Siberia, Alaska, Greenland and areas in the Canadian Arctic. While all Inuit People speak related dialects of the Inuktitut language, they have distinct differences in technology, culture and social organization. European and Canadian history named these peoples Eskimos (Eskimaux), a term which is still used in the United States of America. However, in Labrador, these people are referred to as Inuit People. Inuit history states that the Inuit of Labrador always referred to themselves as Inuit. In 1752, Moravian Missionaries from Europe traveled to Labrador to set up missions or stations in the region. These missions had a strong influence on the history of Northern Labrador. The Importance of People in the Inuit Culture In the past, the Inuit of Labrador were led and guided by Elders. Elders are older persons in the Inuit population who are respected for their vast knowledge in particular areas. These Elders hold considerable powers of authority and influence within their communities. The Language – Inukititut Prior to Confederation, Inuktitut was the language of daily activity. Modernization, exposure to changing values and education in provincial schools led to a change in the language. Today, programs are emerging in the schools to teach students their native language in order to preserve the culture. The Inuit are one with the land, the sea and it resources. Today, the importance of resources are re-emerging with development on the sea, in the forests and in the earth, with projects like Voisey’s Bay. Leave a Comment Directions: The Lake Melville region including Happy Valley - Goose Bay and North West River have a large Inuit population however the northern communities of Nain, Hopedale, Postville, Makkovik and Rigolet are predominately Inuit.Website: http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/4e22e/dd3e1/ Other Contact: http://www.nunatsiavut.com/
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Icebergs are very common in Labrador during late spring and early summer. Originating in the high Arctic and Greenland, these mountains of floating ice are spectacular as they drift south on the cold Labrador Current to melt in the warmer waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Icebergs are often of enormous size and may reach a height of 90 to 150 m (about 300 to 500 ft) above the surface of the sea. Yet about 90 percent of the mass of an iceberg is beneath the surface, which presents potential problems for navigators. Two points in Labrador that come to mind for great iceberg views are the lookout in St. Lewis, Labrador and at the Point Amour Lighthouse. That being said you are most likely going to see a number of these throughout coastal Labrador during the spring and early summer. Leave a Comment Directions: Zones 1, 4 and 5 , Labrador's north coast, southeastern and Labrador Straits regions are the best for icebergs.Website: http://www.virtualtourist.com/m/4e22e/ddf07/ Other Contact: www.labradorcoastaldrive.com
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