Veracruz Things to Do

San Juan de Ulua is a great old Spanish fortress in Veracruz, just across the water facing the Port. This place transports you back in time somewhat. The film Romancing the Stone was shot here. At time of writing, I am in Panama City where everyone raves about the Old Spanish Fortress at Panama Viejo. Okay, let,s be blunt: Panama Viejo has got nothing on San Juan de Ulua!
Ask for directions in Veracruz Centro as San Juan de Ulua is very close but what with the Gulf of Mexico and the huge Port getting in the way, it,s a terribly long walk in an area where you,re not really allowed to walk. I walked... along a beach I never knew existed. Squatters live right on that beach, which is covered in detritus. A sign warns that the beach is not maintained for swimming or anything else and is unsafe to your health. A man caught up with me as I untangled myself from some huge cactus and insisted to get me back on the 2-lane road with no sidewalk to the Fortress. The area by the beach is dangerous and the road after that is along a canal where people live in run-down fishing boats. They launch their nets to catch shrimps and maybe even a few pelicans. None of them were too happy to see me on their turf.

TAKE A TAXI from Veracruz Centro, for USD5, to San Juan de Ulua Visitors Centre. Entrance fee USD3. Juice and snacks vendors at the entrance, plus cabs that wait there until closing time, 5 p.m.

One of the most enjoyable things to do in Veracruz is to pull up a chair at any one of the many zocalo restaurants and watch as the fun comes to you. Down a couple of beers while people dance, children run and play and musicians wander up to you and offer to play a rendition of timeless Mexican classics.

The setting is stunningly tropical and the atmosphere so laid back you could imagine you were on vacation...

Something to remember: the musos don't just play for free, they expect a few pesos for their time. If you don't want to shell out (why wouldn't you though?) just let them know so they don't kick off into song and then get angry when you don't have a cash to spare.

What would otherwise be a sleepy seaside village turns into a raging party every year at Carnaval (the dates change every year, but it's tied into the period leading into Easter).

We were in town for the first three nights, and found ourselves partying hard at a massive concert in the zocalo. Laser lights scanned the skies, speakers blared, and local bars set up stalls out the front of their shops to sell poor travelers like us large plastic cups filled with the local booze.

We weren't in town to see the giant parade that ends the Carnaval, but as long as you experience a few nights of this massive street party, then it's well worth your time.

As we arrived in the plaza, a Mexican band was playing music and lots of people were there simply listening to it or even dancing on the streets.

Interesting how life seems to be slow sometimes... you can even put some time aside to dance in the middle of the streets.

This fortress was built between XVI and XVIII centuries on a small isle to protect the harbor, which was attacked by pirates several times.

The main structure was built with coral stone from the surroundings. The place has been covered by fantastic legends and it was used during the centuries for commercial, military and jail purposes.

Curiosity: Some scenes of the movie "Romancing the Stone" (Michael Douglas & Kathleen Turner) were shot here; you may remember that.

Definitely worth a visit for the historical contents...

Today, the Fort of San Juan de Ulua serves as an interesting museum. Take a tour on it's history. This is such a unique place that it's even been shown in the movies. Take a close look and see it shown as a set for the movie Romancing the Stone. Michael Douglas spent 2 months in Veracruz filming that movie. That same movie contains a scene in the Cascadas de Texolo (check out my Xico, Veracruz or Xalapa, Veracruz page for info on that interesting waterfall).

Check out the famous Malecon de Veracruz, which encompasses several miles of beach front property. Just stroll around and admire the beauty of it all (try not to melt in the process though...hehehe). I manage to buy a delicious coconut with its juice. I also stoped and ate on one of the waterfront restaurants. It was good, but way overpriced.

The Museo Naval contains exhibits that offer a glimpse on the relationship and history behind humans and their exploration of the sea. There are several interesting models, pictures, diagrams, items, letters, and more. Not only did I saw modern and past naval history of Mexico, but also a history of the first man to use a trunk as means of water transport to ancient civilizations and more.