Beyond the Highway, Big Sur

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Mission San Antonio de Padua was constructed in 1771 and was the third of 21 Spanish missions in California. The original location was a few miles away, but the facilities were moved to the current location in 1773. The missionaries built the mission much as you see it today, with a large quadrangle, mission church, a mill, and reservoirs. Though the 1830s the mission was very successful with large herds of sheep and cattle. In the 1830s the missions were secularized by the Mexican government, and Mission San Antonio was maintained by a few priests until the 1880s. By 1906 the elements and earthquakes destroyed most of the original mission, leaving just a few walls and the original church facade. When William Randolph Hearst bought the property he gave significant funds for rebuilding the mission, and after the US army purchased the land, restoration continued.

Today Mission San Antonio de Padua is one of the only Spanish missions in California that exists in a similar natural environment as during the Spanish times. This is a beautiful mission in a secluded valley that is very welcoming to the rare visitors who make this trek. We loved the little cats that run around the mission just begging to be petted by anyone who comes near. Visiting the mission, gardens, and surrounding grounds is free, but the museum asks for a small entry fee.

This is the most off-the-beaten path of the missions. From Big Sur, take Nacimiento-Ferguson Road through Los Padres National Forest to Fort Hunter Liggett, then drive through the base to Mission Road. From Hwy 101 head to Jolon and enter Fort Hunter Liggett. Take Mission road to the mission.

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Sure you can pay $20 or more and hang out with thousands of tourists at the world famous Hearst Castle. But did you know Hearst had another mansion near Big Sur called the Hearst Hacienda? Even better, this second mansion is far from the throngs of tourists, and free to visit.

Before he constructed the massive Hearst Castle, William Randolph Hearst, a huge newspaper baron, built this much more modest hunting lodge and ranch. It was designed by Julia Morgan, the same architect who built the Hearst Castle, and was designed after Mission San Antonio, less than a half mile away. In the 1930s, the entire ranch including the hacienda was sold to the US Army to become Fort Hunter Liggett.

Today the military has priority on hotel rooms at the Hacienda, but any of the remaining 14 rooms in the small hotel are available to the public. Also in the building are a nice bar and a restaurant.

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Everyone knows you get to Big Sur via Highway 1, but few seem to know about the back way to Big Sur via the Nacimiento-Ferguson Road. About half of this route runs through the Los Padres National Forest, while the other half goes through Fort Hunter-Liggett, an active US Army post.

The main gate at Hunter-Liggett is near Jolon, just off Highway 101. To get on post you must have a photo ID, vehicle registration, and proof of insurance. Once on the post you can visit the historic sites of Mission San Antonio, the Hearst Hacienda, and the ancient Native American art at La Cueva Pintada (The Painted Cave) . Also on the fort you are likely to see soldiers training, hundreds of vehicles in motor pools, and even tank targets out on the ranges. The fort was created to provide a training ground for soldiers, and its 165,000 acres provide plenty of opportunity for that! The majority of the base was purchased from William Randolph Hearst. Fort Hunter Liggett was under control of Monterey's Fort Ord until it closed in 1993. Today Fort Hunter Liggett falls uner the command of Fort McCoy, WI and is used mainly to train guard and reserve forces. Cone Peak, at 5,155 feet, is the highest peak within the fort.

Highway 1 along the California coast is a drive to be enjoyed, to be savored. Don't treat it merely as a place between San Francisco and Los Angeles. Take your time and soak in the sunshine...too much driving is never a good thing anyway.

Driving along Route 1 affords many places to stop and hike, either down to the shore or through the woods. The scent of the pines is magnified by the damness of the fog. The flora is interesting against the back drop of an angry sea.

The Fort Hunter-Liggett is a decommissioned army base just east of the Santa Lucia Mountains, occupying a large hidden valley. The area has never been subject to modern agriculture therefore the landscape is pristine with idyllic oaks, creeks, and rolling grasslands. Within the base lies well-preserved Mission San Antonio de Padua, one of the more successful 18th century Spanish Missions. The sense of isolation and history of this place is amazing.

To go to Mission San Antonio, take Nacimiento Road from Highway 1, approximately 60 miles south of Carmel. The road climbs up the coast ridge to about 3800 feet, providing incredibly ocean views. Then drive further east along a pristine canyon with creekside campgrounds. Next you will enter the Fort, (do not carry illegal items, and make sure have your car registration and driver's license with you), and follow signs to the Mission. Within the fort you cannot leave the road until you're at Mission San Antonio. To leave the fort there is also an eastern exit (Jolon Road) which leads to King City on Highway 101.

Big Sur is a 90 mile stretch of Hwy One from Carmel t o San Simeon...however get off the Highway and discover more of the real Big Sur...check out the hikes....check out the mountains...smell the ocean
the Esalen Indians , who once roamed this area, travelled more west to east than north to south....they knew things!!!

Big Sur and it's nice bridges of the scenic route nr. 1 is often forgotten as time is mainly spend at Hearst Castle, Carmel (Pebbles Beach) and Monterey. Just stop for a nice break of one hour and walk along the coast to enjoy the beauty that is all around.