Golden Gate N.R.A., San Francisco

For fantastic views of Golden Gate Bridge, Marin Headlands and Lands End that are free of crowds, avoid the parking lot for cars and buses at the bridge itself and pull off into one of the parking areas west of the bridge off Lincoln. The parking lot now has a paved entrance with lots of space for parking. You can walk on and around the old gun batteries and walk along the winding footpaths in either direction. The trail to the east leads right to Golden Gate Bridge, giving you a much more relaxing way to see it than fighting through the crowds at the main parking lot.

Mile-long Baker Beach lies at the foot of rugged cliffs west of the Golden Gate. Large waves, undertow and rip currents make the beach unsafe for swimming, but it provides panoramic views in all directions. Some years ago we hiked down to the beach, but they don't want you to do that - for good reason of safety and erosion.

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Fort Mason was established in 1860 and grew to huge importance as the San Francisco Port of Embarkation, supplying US forces in the Pacific during World War II and the Korean War. In the 1960s, Oakland Army Terminal became the main port of embarkation through the Vietnam War, and the Golden Gate National Recreation Area (GGNRA) took over the the fort in the 1970s. Today Fort Mason is the headquarters of the GGNRA, and is used for its open parks, the marina, and for cultural events in the old warehouses and piers. Fort Mason also has a hostel and many of the historic Army houses can be rented from the National Park Service.

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Exploring the rugged coastline near Lincoln Park and the Presidio offers some outstanding scenic views of the Golden Gate, the beaches, and wildlife. In addition, one can see some of the century-old gun emplacements built by the US Army. This is all part of the Golden Gate National Recreational Area.

This area can be reached by Highways 1, 101 and 280 from the north and south San Francisco Bay Area, and by Highway 880 from the East Bay.

The address here is:

Building 201, Fort Mason
San Francisco,CA 94123-0022

Upon reaching the Pacific Ocean on the western end of Golden Gate Park, we found the famous Cliff House closed for renovations. So we redirected our energies north and followed the trails to the Sutro Bath ruins named after Adolph Sutro these grounds hold only the ruins of a once enormous glass enclosed roman bath santuary. Futher up the trail, torward point Lobos, you get to stroll amoung groves and firs and look down at the Pacific as it curls into South Bay. You can see a glimpse of the Golden Gate Bridge peeking out from the bluffs. From Point Lobos one gets fabulous views of the Bridge, the Bay and the Pacific Ocean all in one shot.

We went to Ocean Beach, on the west side of San Francisco, in order to see the Musee Mcanique (see below), only to discover that the location, in the Cliff House, is being renovated (most of the machines are at Pier 45 for the moment, but sadly the Camera Obscura was closed).

However, it wasn't a wasted trip: Ocean Beach has a gorgeous sandy strand, with plenty of waves to spice things up for surfers. It's dangerous, though: the inexperienced should not surf here, and swimming, and even paddling, can be fraught with danger. The adjoining Richmond District area is popular now with many Chinese people, who have moved out here after making a little money in Chinatown. As a consequence, there are plenty of Chinese and other Asian restaurants in the area.

The views out over the Pacific, and up and down the coast, are especially good if you climb up the hill to the Cliff House. Walk a little further up the hill and you can gaze out over the remains of the public bath house known as Sutro Baths built in 1896.

They were once the world's biggest swimming baths, and the photos give a sense of the astonising scale of the construction, with seven pools. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1966, and the ruins are surprisingly appealing.

It's called Land's End. Even though it's on the 49 Mile Drive and is adjacent to the Lincoln Park Golf course, it's a must see destination for any visitor to SF. From this vantage point, it's clear why it's called the "Golden Gate". And it's also clear, why it was obscured to explorers for so many years.

It's also a fantastic vantage point to watch the Blue Angels from, when they do their annual show during Fleet Week.

The Golden Gate National Recreation Area, on both sides of the Golden Gate Bridge, covers 75,398 acres, making it the largest urban National Park in the USA. It is 2 1/2 times the size of the City of San Francisco, and includes 28 miles of coastline. One of the best and last open areas is along CA-1, just north of the city. There is a Visitors Center for the Marin Headlands, hiking trails, Point Bonita Lighthouse, and some of the most stunning coastal scenery to be found anywhere.

To reach the Marin Headlands Take US-101 across the Golden Gate Bridge and follow it to CA-1. Turn left and this highway will take you north along the Pacific Coast. The road is narrow and winding in places. Allow plenty of time to stop along the way and admire the view.

Venture over the Golden Gate Bridge to the Marin Headlands. The narrow winding roads crest far above the deck of the bridge and offer amazing vistas of the city, bay, and ocean. The scenery is dramatic, and the high bluffs reminded me of my travels in Ireland. This is a MUST for any visitor to San Francisco.