Goodfellows, Minneapolis

Goodfellow's
Where we go when we want to impress someone, even though secretly it's as much a present to ourselves. Everything about this restaurant, from the luxe art-deco interior, to the list of over 800 domestic wines, to executive chef Kevin Cullen's stunning interpretations of seafood and game, deserves praise. But what we love most about Goodfellow's is the clarity of vision, how from the moment you enter every fillip complements the next. An evening at Goodfellow's unwinds as a series of small but delightful surprises, whether it's an expert reading of the night's menu by your server or a small accompaniment that ties the entire plate together. No detail is considered too small to fuss over. The scallops in the dish of grilled Maine diver scallops with braised venison blini and blackberries knock you out with their tender savor, but it's the blini that leaves a lasting impression, an entre in miniature. Whenever possible we order the foie gras, which is sometimes seared with sweet and sour papaya, toasted macadamia nuts and baby bok choy. Cullen lets his imagination run wild across a wide range of influences (witness the pheasant consomm with Mascarpone ravioli, white truffle oil, root vegetables and wild mushrooms) but is never clever for cleverness' sake, because for all its inventiveness, Goodfellow's never forgets to deliver pure, sweet pleasure.

This place has been out of business for a number of years now. For a good alternative, try Cosmos.