Glacier National Park Favorites

Fondest memory: The rest of the “bear rules” concern food and its storage. Well, food in this case pertains to anything that has a scent as a bear with it's incredibly sensitive sense of smell could misconstrue say a tube of toothpaste as something to eat. Sure we wouldn't think of it as a tasty snack but then again we don't spend eight months in hibernation either. Did I say a bear had a good sense of smell? Try six better than a blood hound's. So, needless to say leave the canned salmon and tuna at home and stick to fairly scentless stuff like dried food.

I shouldn't have to say this but do not even think of eating or storing food in your tent. No, not one drop, not even a leftover piece of minty tooth floss. You'll need to hang your food at the conveniently located poles provided by the National Park service. You will also have to cook and consume your meals at the designated “kitchen” area. If this all sounds a bit heavy on rules, it is for good reason and believe me there's something kind of comforting about eating with your peers in a little circle when you are well, surrounded by grizzles.

Ok, so you do everything you can to avoid a confrontation with a bear but just what do you do if you do find yourself face to face with one? Well, that depends on many variables and this has to be the most daunting but at the same time amusing part of the video you have to watch before heading into Glacier's back country.

First you have to ascertain if you are dealing with a black bear or grizzly as the park is the lucky home to both types. To make things more complex, not all black bears are black and grizzlies vary in color considerably too. So, you're left with some other physical attributes of grizzlies like a more rounded flat face, huge humped shoulder, and far longer claws. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Fondest memory: Now, maybe you're more calm in the face of danger but I wasn't so sure I would be so cool to be able to ascertain these qualities with a bear staring me down and time being an unknown factor. But let's say you can make this distinction.

The common reasoning was always to fight a black bear if attacked and crouch and play dead if a grizzly. Of course, this is only if attacked. First things first, and that is to back away slowly. I met many experienced “bear hikers” while in Glacier and many of them said they wouldn't just play dead with a young grizzly and that you have to stand your ground to see if the bear might fear you more if they figure you will not give in. Just make sure the bear is not too young. Baby bears or young adolescents deserve special care as Mama surely is nearby and willing to rip you to shreds if she figures you are a threat to her cubs. Okay, now let's assume you sorted out what type of bear it is and even it's approximate age.

Now, you have to figure out if the bear is acting aggressively or defensively. This is perhaps the most important thing in your reaction. It seems a defensive attack by a grizzly is best countered by playing dead, but always protecting your neck and head, trying to remain face down. If the bear is acting aggressively or even stalking you, it may be looking at you as a food source in which case you would have to fight back or essentially be eaten. Luckily, this is not particularly common though the thought alone is disconcerting. Factor in your chances of successfully fending off a full grown grizzly alone are pretty slim and you begin to question your choice of areas to hike in. (concluded below in Fondest Memory)

Fondest memory: My first go was just prodding for information but as carefully as I danced around him for it, I received a condescending tone none the less in having to do your homework before coming in for a permit. I had time and my plan was to wait out the weather and try for an assortment of planned routes. The next day I was first in line and had an exact itinerary ready. I quickly went down the list and when both Granite Park and Fifty Mountain (two of the hardest to secure campsites in all of Glacier's back country) were available he gave a wry if perplexed smile at my luck.

Later in the afternoon I returned with my wife to watch the required back country video detailing how to more or less live with the bears. I wondered to myself if I had been so lucky after all and what my wife was thinking I can only imagine as she watched the suggested prone position if one was unlucky enough to be attacked by a grizzly. Oh, and no pretenses are made. Grizzlies do in fact attack and kill hikers in Glacier. The park is considered their domain and if you are entering it, it is with the knowledge that you are doing so at your own risk.

These risks can be minimized by following some simple rules and one of those is the making of noise. Most attacks occur when a bear is surprised so the idea is to make sure they know you are coming. Many opt for bells but they are not really effective due to the poor carry of their light ring. Talking loudly is much more effective and nothing beats plain shouting when it comes to scaring just about anything in your path away. I can personally attest to the latter and aside from the ubiquitous big horn sheep and mountain goats who both seem oblivious to man's presence, I didn't see any wildlife while hiking in the park. Now, this is not exactly what I would like but it sure beats getting mauled by a grizzly! (continued below in Fondest Memory)

Favorite thing: As stunning as the landscape is in Glacier National Park, the wildlife steals the show for most visitors.

Fondest memory: Making noise and hiking are not two things that go together naturally. I abhor those unable to keep their traps shut when enjoying what should be the solitude that is intrinsic to walking in the woods or traipsing along a mountain ridge. If there's one time when words are not necessary, this is it. But when walking in the footsteps of the grizzly one has to reconsider their vow of silence. In fact, the protocol calls for making as much noise as possible and though this is something I've become quite good at I'm not sure I'll ever get truly used to it.

Glacier National Park in northern Montana presents such a challenge with the highest concentration of grizzlies in the lower 48. Sure, one can visit the park without subjecting oneself to such a state of affairs but driving from one scenic pullout to the next has never been my style. So, on arriving at the ruggedly beautiful slice of America's best in September I found myself at the back country station trying to pry information from a knowledgeable but not exactly forthcoming ranger. By the season's end, rangers can be a bit ornery but I imagine answering repeated questions about the weather posted outside the office must take it's toll. I had been sitting patiently by the wood stove as another potential back packer got shot down in his attempt to secure a coveted spot on a space limited popular route slicing through the heart of the park. Fifty Mountain campsite was full after he'd made a slight hesitation as to whether or not he wanted it. He was irate at the system and the ranger showed no mercy in alluding to the need to be more sure of your desired itinerary. (continued below in Fondest Memory)

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Favorite thing: The geology of Glacier NP is quite comprehensive. The area started out as slowly deposited sediment on the floor of a shallow inland sea. This process is why you can find Limestone, Mudstone, and Sandstone throughout the park. Many of the Chalets and later buildings use these uniquely colored rocks for random masonry walls and even foundations.
A tectonic plate boundary eventually thrust the area upward and created the ancestral Rockies. From seafloor to Mountain range the area still did not look like it does today. For that, the process of glaciation had to take place. During the last ice age--ending approximately 10,000 years ago--the entire region would have been covered with a massive sheet of ice. These glaciers carved out the horns, arête’s and cirques that you can now see in the park. In 1850 there were 150 remaining glaciers. Now there are 27 and it is estimated that they will all be gong by 2050.

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Favorite thing: Want to leave your own personal mark on the park? Don't waste your time scratching your name into a tree or in a bathroom stall. How about building a rock cairn? They probably won't last too long after you leave but isn't that the point?
When you go hiking you will probably see some of these cairns that nameless visitors have constructed. Collect a bunch of flat-ish rocks and stack them up to guide the path. It's pretty harmless and a good way to get more familiar with the unique geology of the park.
I decided to build mine on the top of the sign signaling the way for Apikuni falls. When you visit if you take that trail you may find a stack of rocks lying on the ground beneath the sign. That was me.

Favorite thing: Glacier National Park, like nearly every National Park does charge an entrance fee. Typically a $25 pass that is good for 7 day is what you will need. If you decide to purchase the yearly pass it is more and to get access to all National Parks for a full year it is $80.
If you decide to camp you should expect about 10-20 per night depending on the campground.
Fishing does not require a license but there are regulations that need to be followed. For those regulations stop by a visitors center or check out this link.

Website: http://www.allglacier.com/glacier_park/park_fees.php

Favorite thing: Since our first night's accommodations was located just outside the southeast corner of Glacier NP, we had to make a drive south along Highway 89 as far as the tiny village of Kiowa. The scenery along that stretch of road was quite interesting, consisting of rolling hills and valleys of the Prairies. Once we reached Kiowa, we turned off onto the Highway 49 shortcut to East Glacier Park, so we would not have to take the long way around through Browning. This little road, which is closed in winter, was really spectacular as it wound up steep hills and around turns without many guardrails (this photo showing the road running along the side of the hill was taken as we started up it and does not do it justice).

Fondest memory: In the course of this drive between St. Mary and East Glacier Park, I later found out that we had actually passed over another continental divide - the Northern Divide (I thought that seemed like a long hill!). This high ground watershed separates the waters that flow north into the Atlantic Ocean via Hudson Bay from those that flow southeast into the Atlantic Ocean via the Gulf of Mexico. Not many miles west of Kiowa, this ridge runs into the the main East-West Continental divide running down the Rocky Mountains. There, a 2440-m (8000-ft) mountain called Triple Divide is a place where a rain drop might end up heading for either the Pacific Ocean or the Atlantic Ocean (by either the northern or southeastern routes) depending on just what part of the mountain it hit!