El Morro National Monument Travel Guide

Everyone from the Anasazi to Spanish missionaries to the US Army Corps of Engineers were tempted to leave their mark on this stone. Here, Anasazi handprints rest next to the copperplate signature of E. Pen Long.

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A'tsin'na is Zuni for "place of writings on rock". No, I don't think this was the original name of this Anasazi settlement, but it is the name provided by their Zuni decendents. Partially excavated in the 1950's, and still being studies today, these ruins provide a glimpse into the lives of the 1000-1500 indigenous people who built this 875 room town and called it home for at least 60 years.

One of the many mysteries of the Anasazi is not only how they gained such mastery over their environment, but also why they left highly functioning and advanced townsites. Kivas, living quarters, and community rooms can be found in all of their communities. At this site, they believe the original structures were about 3 stories tall. The Kivas (religious building) have been excavated, as have a small group of the rooms nearby. Most of this pueblo has been left unexcavated for preservation and in respect for the spritual significance of the site to the Zuni people.

The Kiva's require a special note: square Kiva's are from the Mogollon, the round Kiva's from the Anasazi .... having both styles of Kiva in one town is highly unusual .... and leaves many unanswered questions about how these two cultures came to live in the same settlement at the same time.

The views from this settlement are spiritually inspiring and deserve a little extra time.

You get to this site by simply taking the Mesa Top Trail here at El Morro. When you get to the ruins, you know your day on the mesa is coming near to ending ... you begin your decent a short distance later :)

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This little 1/2 mile walk is along a well cared for and paved path. There are minimal inclines, so is accessible by wheelchair .. with either a motor or a strong person to push :)

The trail takes you through the high desert scenery and along the side of the water pool ..... known by early Spanish explorers as Estanque del Penol or Pool of the Great Rock. This 11foot deep pool is fed only by rainfall and snow melt. The water is clear, and cattails grow along it's bank. Almost completely surrounded by the 200ft high mesa, this feature is what made this a perfect campsite for those who wandered in the region .... and allowed the Anasazi to thrive. Since we are in drought ... and have been for a while now ... the pool is less than 6 feet deep. But I was simply amazed that there was any water in it at all :)

Along the walls around the pool you first see the carvings that give this trail its name. Native, Spanish and American artistry in names and symbols - some overlapping - some ornate in simplicity .... grafitti from well before my time has now become historical documentation of the region and it's people.

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The total distance on this walk is about 2 miles ... and is of moderate difficulty. For this out of shape broad, this meant lots of 'picture taking' breaks as the trail rounded the mesa and began it's ascent to the top. Though a bit difficult at some points in this area, the views and experiences from the mesa top are soooo very worthy of your time!

As you near the loop back on Inscription Trail, there are some steps and ramps that go up higher along the mesa's walls. Here is where you start to see and feel the humor of some of these authors ....... political commentary, little additions and other tidbits bring the authors to life. If you choose to continue past this point, you will be rewarded with the views of a lifetime.

After climbing 200feet up to the top .... well, my first thought (after checking my pulse) was simply, "WOW!" Purple cacti, unexcavated ruins, trees groing out of rock and a view that made me feel like I was the last person on earth. The trail wanders along the rocky surface, which alternated between tan and grey colored limestone. and just when I thought I couldn't be amazed any more, we came across the partially excavated ruins known as A'tsin'a... a former home of the mysterious Anasazi and probably ancestors to our modernday Zunis just a few miles away.

From here the trail begins to desend back to the valley below. Sometimes steep, sometimes by way of carved stairs ... the path back toward the visitor center is a slow return to the reality of modern living.

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Though most of us think of rocks as fairly permanent parts of our environment ..... like other living things they change over time. Water erodes the surface and changes the shape. Movements from within mother earth change the location of one object in relation to another. Heat and cold cause contraction and expansion. It seems each of these factors, and others, have contributed to a significant change in the El Morro mesa.

A large section of the mesa has separated due to cracking. This crack is quite noticeable as you wander Inscription Trail. As I got closer to the area that caught my eye, I noticed metal bits and wires ... I was fascinated. As I rounded the far side of this section, after taking time to read the writings on the wall, I noticed a toolbox attached to a tree w/ cables running toward the opposite side of the cracked cliff face - seemed to be going through the crack.

I checked w/ a ranger and I was correct in my initial assumption - the park is monitoring this crack's movement... for when this section decides to let go, it will decimate Inscription Rock AND cause other significant changes to the area. Current movements are quite minor, and this section has been under close observation for about 30 years .... but mother earth will decide to redecorate this area one day in the future.

I'm not trying to be chicken little .... the sky is NOT falling~ yet. But a general warning to remember that nothing is permanent. Be cautious when crawling about the rocks, for even rocks move when they 'feel' like it :)

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One wonderful aspect of the Mesa Top trail is the trail itself! Traversing the limestone mesa top, there is no paving or other usual trail markings. Though parts of the path have been carved more deeply into the limestone, most of the path is not easily seen. The trail is designated by shallow lines carved into the mesa's surface ... and by cairn's along the route. I had to pay attention to these features as I walked to prevent loosing the pathway completely! I'm not used to having to stop and actually think when walking about the area parks, so this came as a surprise to me.

Limestone is slick when wet ... moreso when icey. This particular trail can be closed due to weather conditions that may not be apparent from the lower trail system.

Between the surface itself, and the unusual trail markings, this trail is interesting, fun, but also requires caution. So be alert, aware, and you will enjoy this amazing walk through nature and history.