McSorley's Ale House, New York City

McSorley's -- a small alehouse with sawdust on the floor to keep it dry (sort of) and relieve the smells (not at all) is one of America's most famous bars, thanks in part to a Life magazine picture essay from 1940 about a day in the life of this alehouse, which was first opened back in 1854 and modeled after an old pub in Ireland the owner (McSorley) remembered from his youth. Prior to that Life expose, artist John Sloan did a series of paintings there -- completed between 1912 and 1930 -- and whenever there was a public exhibition of Sloan paintings, business boomed in the bar. Finally, Joseph Mitchell immortalized the bar in The New Yorker, and his essays were later compiled in the book McSorley's Wonderful Saloon. Woody Guthrie sat at a table with regulars shortly before he headed off to the Merchant Marines. Quite a history, right?

The saloon looks much today as it did 50 years ago in the pages of Life, except the walls are more cluttered with pictures, and those pictures have grown even browner with age. Many politicians were among the regulars, which is one of the reasons that Bill McSorley paid no attention to Prohibition, not even bothering with the customary peephole as he continued to serve beer!

The only reason I was able to visit this bar at all, was thanks to a court case in 1969 which was filed to allow the alehouse to serve women. Prior to that, it was "men-only." Even when I used to go there often (it was right around the corner from my old apartment in the East Village), there was only one unisex bathroom with open-door stalls, a not-so-subtle form of discouraging women according to many. Thus, for women, it was a good idea to go with a friend who could stand guard at the door.

McSorley's ale came from a local brewery, and in 1934 Bill McSorley sold the Fidelio Brewery the right to brew and sell McSorley's Cream Stock Ale. Today, the Stroh Brewing Co. makes the McSorley's Ale sold at the bar and throughout the mid-Atlantic states. The beer is not the real reason to visit the bar, and we wouldn't advocate waiting in the long lines that sometimes appear on weekend nights. Then, it's nearly impossible to get a good look at the place. But on a weekday afternoon, McSorley's remains what we think a saloon is supposed to be.

McSorley's Ale House, New York City

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McSorley's Ale House, New York City

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