Beale Street. With the relocation of the Center for Southern Folklore, Beale Street is quickly becoming nothing more than a row of homogenized corporate chains. Barf. Silky O'Sullivan's (183 Beale) manages to retain a lot of charm, check out the bombed-out looking bathrooms!
I'm sorry to say that Beale Street is way touristy now. I didn't stay to hear any music or anything, but I was put off by the Disneylandish air of the place. We did stop at the Center for Southern Culture, a combination musuem/shop that is worth a look.