Monument Valley State Park Local Customs

The Hogan is the traditional home of the Navajo, and is also the structure used for their ceremonial buildings. In the past it was made of sticks and earth, and was round in shape, but now is most commonly made of logs and consequently has to have straight sides – usually eight of them.

According to Navajo stories, the first Hogan was built by Coyote with help from beavers to be a house for First Man, First Woman, and Talking God. The people distinguish between the so-called “male” Hogan, which is smaller with a vestibule and is used for religious purposes, and the larger “female” Hogan which is used as the family home. Whatever its purpose, the door of a Hogan always faces east, towards the rising sun.

We were fortunate to be taken to visit a family Hogan while on our tour of Monument Valley. Our guide John introduced us to his cousin and her children, who lived there, and they welcomed us inside and explained a bit about their home – how the single large room was cooking, living and eating space, each area demarcated only by its furnishings. Nearby was a smaller male ceremonial Hogan which you can see in my photo.

Monument Valley may be a State Park, but access is rather more restricted than is usual in such places and this can be frustrating for some visitors. But consider this – the park is also part of the Navajo Indian Reservation and is home to many families. Historically these people have been poorly treated, forced to leave land that had been their home for many generations and live in exile. Nowadays they can live again in their traditional homelands, but we too have discovered these desert lands and can’t get enough of their beauty. The Navajo welcome us; partly I am sure because they are glad of the income we bring them, but also because they want to share the wonders of their lands with us. If they prefer to keep some parts unspoiled and more private, who are we to begrudge them this? So please enjoy everything that is here to be enjoyed – the drive, the tours, some hiking or horse-riding. And leave the rest of the land to the people whose home it is.

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No Alcohol is permitted in the park or on any Navajo land. Navojo Tribal Rangers are responsible for enforcing all applicable Federal and Tribal Regulations within the park boundaries.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Scenic Drive Hours
Summer (May-Sept) 6:00am - 8:30pm
Winter (Oct - Apr) 8:00am - 4:30pm

Camping fees - $10/night plus Entryfees $5/person
General Admission - $5.00
Ages 9 or under - Free

Monument Valley UT 84536

From Flagstaff, AZ, take U.S. Highway 89 north, 67 miles to U.S. Highway 160. Continue northeast on Route 160 for 62 miles to Kayenta, AZ. Monument Valley is 22 miles north of Kayenta Arizona, along U.S. Highway 163.

Photography for personal use is allowed, but please ask for permission of Dine residence and their property. A gratuity is expected. Commerical photography requires a permit from the Department of Broadcast Services.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Scenic Drive Hours
Summer (May-Sept) 6:00am - 8:30pm
Winter (Oct - Apr) 8:00am - 4:30pm

Camping fees - $10/night plus Entryfees $5/person
General Admission - $5.00
Ages 9 or under - Free

Monument Valley UT 84536

From Flagstaff, AZ, take U.S. Highway 89 north, 67 miles to U.S. Highway 160. Continue northeast on Route 160 for 62 miles to Kayenta, AZ. Monument Valley is 22 miles north of Kayenta Arizona, along U.S. Highway 163.

Please respect the privacy of residence. Do not enter areas unless you have been invited.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Scenic Drive Hours
Summer (May-Sept) 6:00am - 8:30pm
Winter (Oct - Apr) 8:00am - 4:30pm

Camping fees - $10/night plus Entryfees $5/person
General Admission - $5.00
Ages 9 or under - Free

Monument Valley UT 84536

From Flagstaff, AZ, take U.S. Highway 89 north, 67 miles to U.S. Highway 160. Continue northeast on Route 160 for 62 miles to Kayenta, AZ. Monument Valley is 22 miles north of Kayenta Arizona, along U.S. Highway 163.

Where water is precious, you can’t take your daily bath or shower. Navajo use sweat lodges or sweat huts for cleaning. It is more or less a similar principle as a sauna, but it is much more for them than only cleaning. It is a ceremonial as well, for purifying and cleansing body and mind if something evil has touched one. Sweat lodges help to get back into harmony – hózhóní.
The heat comes from a stone, which is heated outside and then put inside on the floor, from time to time sprinkled with water.

In the picture, you can see the sweat lodge in the middle – with the piles of logwood.

A lot of Navajo families still live in hogans, their traditional homes. Hogan simply means “home place” in Navajo language.
There are two types, male and female one – symbolizing the balance of the two opposites in life. Male ones are cone-shaped, with a tunnel-like entrance. They are the place where e.g. curing ceremonies are held (inside and outside).
The female one is bigger, octagonal in shape. It needs to be bigger as this is the place for the family, for cooking, for gathering and for the ceremonies for the children.
The doors of hogans always face east – as this is the place where is is custom to greet Father Sky at the first light of dawn.

Traditionally, hogans are built of cedar or pine logs, and then covered with clay or mud. This is perfect insulation for the hot summers and the cold winters. Floors are left earthen, and a hole is left in the roof as a smoke pipe. This symbolizes the constant contact with Mother Earth and Father Sky.
2 stones are placed left and right of the entrance in the ground, to support the entrance and to symbolize proper building of the hogan.
Whenever a hogan is newly built, ceremonies are done to bless it – either long ceremonies with the help of hatalii or medicine men or only with the owner, who spreads corn pollen to the 4 sacred poits – east, south, west, north (clockwise).

Several traditions and behaviours apply for hogans – if you enter, women move north (right hand) within it (where the kitchen stands), men move south (left hand). The northern place is reserved for the elders or other honoured persons.
Certain taboos are involved with hogans as well – if someone dies inside of a hogan, it becomes uninhabitable forever. A hole is done in the northern wall to give the spirit of the deceased the possibility to leave and don’t come back to molest the living. So when you see a hogan with a hole in the north wall, don’t be surprised if a Navajo will try to avoid coming near it.
In the picture you can see a female hogan on the left side.

Remember, you are visiting a place where people still live their daily lives, and remember how you would feel if people sneak in your garden, taking pictures here and there and entering your house without asking permission.
Here are some do’s and don’ts, I have learned from Navajos to be respected please:
·* when driving or hiking – stay on the designated trails – the soil, which is essential for the vegetation on Monument Valley (and thus food for the sheep) needs hundred of years to recover;
* respect Navajo settlers’ privacy – don’t disturb their property, don’t take pictures without their permission;
* don’t just knock on a door and enter without permission – if you want to visit someone, stand some meters away from the house and wait – if the inhabitants want to see or receive you, they will open the door. But they need that little extra time to get prepared for that;
* don’t stare directly into someone’s eyes – that’s improperly and not polite;
* do not mention names of dead persons – this brings evil;
* do not unneccesary use hars words or swear – bad words have the power to kill;
* if you want to take pictures, this is usually allowed – but please ask for permission prior to get the picture.

Thanks !