Millie's Diner, Richmond

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Style Weekly had it right when it declared Millie's Diner a "snob's nightmare" because it has no pretense. It is literally a neighbourhood hole in the wall and a wee bit off the beaten path from the restaurant row in Shockoe Slip and Bottom. In fact, it is so far east on Main Street that it is almost in Chimborazo Park. Furthermore, it's so small you have to leave it to change your mind. At lunch time, there are queues going out the door. When John and I were eating here, we told Mike, a friend of mine who works downtown, to join us for lunch. We got here, but he hadn't quite, and they had a peculiar and, in my opinion, obtuse policy of only seating complete groups. Isn't service about the convenience of the customer, not the restaurant? Once we were all together and finally seated, we really got the friendly neighbourhood feel of the neighbourhood restaurant. Our waitress was prompt and attentive.

Favorite Dish: I had the spicy black bean and cheddar cheese burrito that came with pico de gallo and fried potatoes and peppers. The pico de gallo and the red pepper coulis decorating the top were surely spicy, but the black beans were underseasoned. In my opinion, black beans without cumin is a culinary crime. For that reason, the burrito was weaker than bus station chili, but the potatoes and the pico de gallo were first rate. You'd think I would be thoroughly enamoured with a restaurant that prides itself on being a snob's nightmare. I wish I could give it a better rating. However, their "complete party" policy is as dumb as a bag of hammers and the main dish was disappointing.