La Chacarita y la Recoleta
Dos cementerios tan distintos en una misma ciudad no hay. La Recoleta demuestra como vivia "la otra mitad" en el Buenos Aires de antano. Con sus mausoleos y grandes estatuas definieron una clase social desde hace mucho extinta. Cabe resaltar en este cementerio la tumba de Evita finalmente traida a Buenos Aires luego de demasiados anos fuera su pais natal. Se puede facilmente llegar a la recoleta a pie del museo casa Evita. Ayuda a entenderla un poco mejor.
La Chacarita es el cementerio de todos. El mayor aqui, por supuesto el maestro Gardel. Quita el aliento ver su mausoleo cubierto por placas q llegan de todo el mundo, de todo lugar y tiempo, generaciones venidas y por venir. Aqui tambien se pueden hallar los mausoleos del Troilo, Pugliese, Quinquela Martin y demas en el circulo de los famosos.
El Gomero es un arbol centenario, plantado por los Hermanos Recoletos , en 1800 , que eran los encargados de la iglesia . Tiene una copa de 50 mts de diámetro y 20 mts de altura y está enfrente del café La Biela
...verde de hojas botella
botella verde en la mesa
y en sillas verde botella
anda la verdosa sombra ...
( p j adorno )
The Gomero (Rubber tree) is a centenial tree , planted by the Recoletos brothers , in 1800 , and they were in charge of the church . It has a crown of 50 m diameter and 20 m high and it is in front the Biela Bar
...green of botle leafs
green botle on the table
and on botle green chairs
moves the greenish shade...
( p j adorno )
En la Recoleta hay restaurantes , bares , terrazas...
Un clásico es La Biela , que tiene la terraza debajo del gomero y es el sitio ideal para tomarte tranquilamente un Gin Tonic o un "café especial"y ver pasear a la gente
Si no tomas alcohol , puedes tomarte un helado en Freddo que está justo enfrente , son buenísimos
In the Recoleta there are restaurants , bars , terraces ...
A classic is La Biela , that has a terrace under the rubber tree and is the ideal place to take peacefully a Gin Tonic or a "special coffee" and watch the people strolling
If you do not take alcohol , you may take an ice-cream in Freddo that is just in front and they are very good
En la Plaza Intendente Albear , más conocida como la Plaza de Francia , en la Recoleta , justo al lado del cementerio , se instala los fines de semana entre las 10 y las 17h , un mercadillo "hippie" con cientos de puestos en los que se venden artesanías , libros antiguos y artículos de diseño
In the Intendente Albear Square , better known as Francia Square , in the Recoleta , just besides the cemetery , it is installed the week ends between 10 and 17h , a "hippie" market with hundred of stalls , where they sell handicrafts , old books and design articles
When I visit the Recoleta cemetery I happened to join an excellent tour by Carla who is a "profesora en Historia." Her guided tour is in English. She guided us through the noteworthy tombs and explained the histories and anecdotes behind them.
I don't think I'd appreciate Recoleta cemetery as much if it were not her explaining the histories behind each of the tomb. Because I wouldn't even know where and the significances of majorities of tombs. I believe she mentioned that she also provide guides to other different historical locations - cemeteries, and Tigre.
Her contact email is: email@example.com
Anotine Bourdelle's most important commission came from Argentina in 1912. His General Alvear Monument was executed between 1912 and 1923, but was placed here only in 1925. This equestrian monument depicts General Alvear, a hero of the Argentinian war of independence from the spanish crown. The red granite pedestal was designed in colaboration with the argentine architect Alejandro Bustillo, and its flanked by four allegorical figures representing the civic virtues Strength, Victory, Liberty, and Eloquence. It is consider to be the best monument in Buenos Aires.
Carlos Maria de Alvear (1789-1852) argentine general and politician was one of leaders of our independence from the Spanish crown. Grandfather of Torcuato de Alvear, first city major of Buenos Aires; and grand grandfather of Marcelo Torcuato de Alvear, argentine president between 1922 and 1928.
Born in Montauban in southwestern France, Emile Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929) a disciple of August Rodin did the first bronze casting of his Hercules Archer in 1909 for the Prince Emmanuel of Sweden for his palace in Stockholm. Other castings may be seen in the Metropolitan Museum, the Musee d'Orsay, the Bourdelle Museum in Paris, the National Museum of Western Art in Tokyo, the New Orleans Museum of Art. The city of Buenos Aires purchased this casting in 1938 paying 20,000 pesos.
The myth which Bourdelle chose to depict was the sixth labor of Hercules. The great hero had been commanded to rid the people of Arcadia of the Stymphalian Birds who were ruining the crops and shooting the inhabitants with steel tipped feathers. Hercules shot many of them with his arrows as they flew up from their coverts.
Located in Plaza Dante in Recoleta it is definitely one of the most important pieces of art in Buenos Aires. It is 2,40 mts high and weights more than 500 kgs.
This is perhaps my favourite sculpture in Buenos Aires. Take the pedestrian bridge from the MNBA to the Law School, and once you cross Av. Figueroa Alcorta go to the right opposite the Law School and you will see this sculpture of an Argentine aborigine with her two sons captured in the times of the "Campaña del Desierto" (war against the aborigine indians).
Lucio Correa Morales (1852-1923) finished it in 1906, and it amazes me how he depicted in white Carrara marble the sadness and melancholy of her face knowing she wasnt going to see her home again.
If you like sculptures dont miss these fine examples of art!
Three bronze masterpieces of the French sculptor Antoine Bourdelle ("Hercules Archer", "General Alvear Monument", and the "Dying Centaur"), and a Carrara marble masterpiece of the Argentine artist Lucio Correa Morales "La Cautiva" are exhibited in the parks around The National Museum of Fine Arts (MNBA).
The General Alvear monument -known as the best monument in Buenos Aires, -not for me though :) i like better San Martin's monument)-, is very easy to spot right at the joint of Av. Libertador and Av. Figueroa Alcorta. But the three other ones (and specially "La Cautiva") are a bit hidden, at least for the typical tourist paths. Check the map for the exact location, and the following tips for more information.
I highly recommend visiting this cemetery while in Recoleta (Plaza Francia area). There are no graves here but mausoleums made of granite or marble. The architecture is really superb and the cemetery is quite well-kept. Whole families rest here. You can get a glimpse of the coffins through the glass windows, some of them are really dusty as not all the relatives of those buried there take care of them.
There are guided tours, one of them is about love stories concerning some of the people resting in the cemetery.
Evita (Eva Perón) is buried here, and so are many Argentine historic figures like Domingo F. Sarmiento, who opened the first school in the country.
The Recoleta Cemetery was an interesting walk and ok place to spend a few hours. Eva Peron is buried here, if that takes your fance, but personally I found the interesting crypts and wandering cats more of interest. There are also plenty of souvenir stalls at the entrance/exit
Most of them have been there for more than a century! The branches are so long and heavy that you'll see some woodden sticks that have been placed under it to hold them up.
There are many benches under them where couples hang out.
As a very special sight of B. Aires is the famous Recoleta cemetery with its thousands of mausoleums and tombs should be visited. It is said, that it compares only with Pere Lachaise cemetery of Paris !
The Cemetery includes graves of some of the most influential and important persons of Argentina, including several presidents, scientists, artists, musicians and poets.
Evita's final burial place is in her families crypt in the cemetary of Recoleta. "Final" because her remains had quite a trip getting there. Her body was stolen by anti-Perónistas in 1955 and hidden in Italy until she was discovered in 1974. Then they buried her back in the Presidential crypt, and finally transferred her remains to the Duarte's family tomb two years later.
The area of the cemetery covers 50,000m2 in whcih you could easily get lost so the authorities do provide a map when you enter the entrance of the cemetary. This shows the main areas of interest. Evita's remains can be found at plot number 57 which, for your information, is roughly middle left of the cemetery map shown in picture 2.
Apart from the interest in Evita, the cemetery as a whole is of interest. From extremely old and ornate statues to modern lighted windows, there is a dearth of interesting things to check out. If we were not on a guided tour (and it wasn't pouring down with rain), then I would have loved to see more than I actually did.
This is one of my favourite activities. I usually do this in the afternoon, after lunch. But you can have lunch in the many restaurants in front of the cemetery and then walk around.
What is there to see? The cemetery (home to Evita and other famous figures), the church (too golden inside to my taste, but you may like it), Centro Cultural Recoleta (next to the church) with lots of temporary exhibitions by local and international artists (painting, photography, sculpture, etc), the markets (lots of stalls selling handcraft) and the buskers that give their shows in the grass area, where people usually sit to see them.
The Fine Arts Museum is just across the street too.
Then, when night falls, you may want to go for a movie at Village Recoleta theatres, next to Mc Donald's. There's also a bookshop with a coffee shop inside at the entrance of this cinema complex, called Cúspide, which is worth taking a look at. Most of the books are in Spanish, I'm afraid.
If you're interested in furniture and objects for the house, you may like to visit Buenos Aires Design, which is in the same area, to see some local design.