Recoleta, Buenos Aires

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I spend a morning in Recoleta district, one of the richest districts in the capital. First I visited the Basilica Nuestra Senora del Pilar, a not so big church that was built in 1732 by Jesuit monks and it’s located next to the cemetery. I liked some paintings here and the golden altar but I think it was too kitch for a church!

Then I visited the famous cemetery of Recoleta, a big cemetery that was built in 1822, with many narrow streets. Hopefully, they gave me a map at the entrance so to know where some of the famous “oweners” of the tombs are! The number of the tombs rises up to more than 6.000 (!) and some of them are historic monuments.

Most of the visitors were there for the tomb of Evita Peron of course. Eva Peron (1919-1952) became famous as the first lady of Argentina(1946-52) as the second wife of president Peron. It was july 26, 1952 when she died of cancer at the age of 33. All activity in Argentina stopped and the majority of the population went into mourning with thousand of people block every street outside the presidential residence with 8 of them crushed to death because of the crowd waves coming endlessly from every corner of Buenos Aires! Her body was stolen (!) in 1955, it resurfaced in 1971 and returned to Buenos Aires in 1974 from Italy! It was in presidential crypt but then the put it in Recoleta for extra protection (the heavy steel layers are safe but nothing interesting to see…)

After the cemetery I walked the streets of Recoleta, first at av. Alvear with some upscale shops. At the corner with Posadas street I saw the General Alvear monument.

Don't miss the museum of Fine Arts(museo de bellas artes). It is at av.del Libertador 1473, where you can see works by Rembrandt, van Gogh etc opened tuesday-sunday after 12:30am(sat/sun after 9:30am)

Then I went to eat some ice cream because I couldn’t stand walking anymore…

On Saturday mornings (although things really don't go into full swing until noon or a little after) this hillside becomes chock full of stands selling all kinds of arts, crafts, jewelry, knick knacks, etc.

Since many tourists attend this fair and the walkways tend to get jammed with people, this is a prime opportunity to get pickpocketed. By the same token, there are quite a few uniformed police circulating, but just be aware.

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While walking towards Cementerio de la Recoleta we visited Nuestra Señora del Pilar. Inside the white colonial church the interior resembled baroque style with beautiful ornate interior. Nuestra Señora del Pilar is a Catholic Church.

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Buenos Aires' most sophisticated and traditionally upper-class neighbourhood Recoleta is considered to be one of the finest and most expensive areas of the city. Apart from the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the final resting place of Evita Peron, Recoleta is also full of chic apartment buildings, parks, galleries and boutiques. There are a great number of first class restaurants, cafes and night clubs on the streets surrounding the cemetery, which gives the special atmosphere to the place.

Recoleta forms part of the Barrio Norte. It's well worth a look for its French-style homes and beautiful churches. The most famous is the Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar, the oldest in the city. Only 500 meters further is the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes - MNBA (www.mnba.org.ar). It houses a significant collection of Argentine Art; Brazilian and Uruguayan works are also shown and a famous self-portrait by Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. This ultra-modern building is a welcome addition to the city's cultural landscape.

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The ominous gates, Doric-columned portico, and labyrinthine paths of the oldest cemetery in Buenos Aires (1822) may leave you with a sense of foreboding. The final resting place for the nation's most illustrious figures is a virtual city of the dead covering 13½ acres that are rumored to be the most expensive real estate in town. The cemetery has more than 6,400 elaborate vaulted tombs and majestic mausoleums, 70 of which have been declared historic monuments. The mausoleums resemble chapels, Greek temples, pyramids, and miniature mansions. The administrative offices at the entrance provide a free map, and caretakers throughout the grounds can help you locate the more intriguing tombs including the tomb of the famous Eva Perron!

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La Chacarita y la Recoleta
Dos cementerios tan distintos en una misma ciudad no hay. La Recoleta demuestra como vivia "la otra mitad" en el Buenos Aires de antano. Con sus mausoleos y grandes estatuas definieron una clase social desde hace mucho extinta. Cabe resaltar en este cementerio la tumba de Evita finalmente traida a Buenos Aires luego de demasiados anos fuera su pais natal. Se puede facilmente llegar a la recoleta a pie del museo casa Evita. Ayuda a entenderla un poco mejor.
La Chacarita es el cementerio de todos. El mayor aqui, por supuesto el maestro Gardel. Quita el aliento ver su mausoleo cubierto por placas q llegan de todo el mundo, de todo lugar y tiempo, generaciones venidas y por venir. Aqui tambien se pueden hallar los mausoleos del Troilo, Pugliese, Quinquela Martin y demas en el circulo de los famosos.

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El Gomero es un arbol centenario, plantado por los Hermanos Recoletos , en 1800 , que eran los encargados de la iglesia . Tiene una copa de 50 mts de diámetro y 20 mts de altura y está enfrente del café La Biela

...verde de hojas botella
botella verde en la mesa
y en sillas verde botella
anda la verdosa sombra ...
( p j adorno )

The Gomero (Rubber tree) is a centenial tree , planted by the Recoletos brothers , in 1800 , and they were in charge of the church . It has a crown of 50 m diameter and 20 m high and it is in front the Biela Bar

...green of botle leafs
green botle on the table
and on botle green chairs
moves the greenish shade...
( p j adorno )

En la Recoleta hay restaurantes , bares , terrazas...
Un clásico es La Biela , que tiene la terraza debajo del gomero y es el sitio ideal para tomarte tranquilamente un Gin Tonic o un "café especial"y ver pasear a la gente
Si no tomas alcohol , puedes tomarte un helado en Freddo que está justo enfrente , son buenísimos
In the Recoleta there are restaurants , bars , terraces ...
A classic is La Biela , that has a terrace under the rubber tree and is the ideal place to take peacefully a Gin Tonic or a "special coffee" and watch the people strolling
If you do not take alcohol , you may take an ice-cream in Freddo that is just in front and they are very good

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En la Plaza Intendente Albear , más conocida como la Plaza de Francia , en la Recoleta , justo al lado del cementerio , se instala los fines de semana entre las 10 y las 17h , un mercadillo "hippie" con cientos de puestos en los que se venden artesanías , libros antiguos y artículos de diseño
In the Intendente Albear Square , better known as Francia Square , in the Recoleta , just besides the cemetery , it is installed the week ends between 10 and 17h , a "hippie" market with hundred of stalls , where they sell handicrafts , old books and design articles

When I visit the Recoleta cemetery I happened to join an excellent tour by Carla who is a "profesora en Historia." Her guided tour is in English. She guided us through the noteworthy tombs and explained the histories and anecdotes behind them.

I don't think I'd appreciate Recoleta cemetery as much if it were not her explaining the histories behind each of the tomb. Because I wouldn't even know where and the significances of majorities of tombs. I believe she mentioned that she also provide guides to other different historical locations - cemeteries, and Tigre.

Her contact email is: cvhorton@yahoo.com