Recoleta, Buenos Aires

1 more image

I wasn't going to go to the Recoleta Cemetary, in the end. The more time I spent in Buenos Aires, the more I identified with San Telmo. It was all I could do to get out as far as Florida and Lavalle Streets when I needed stuff from the 21st century. I lived in San Telmo for two months and it just seemed to have more and more to offer every day so I didn't feel like playing tourist outside.

(To be fair to Buenos Aires, I must say I reached it after months of good but arduous travel, in a very special state-of-mind, and I was determined to take it barrio by barrio, at my speed, even before I arrived there. It turned out I took in just one barrio but for me, it's the best and I'm happy.)

But on my last day, my landlords gave me their historical guide to the Recoleta Cemetary and practically begged me to go and see it. I'm glad I followed their advice, this famous landmark is really worth seeing.The monumental architecture alone is wonderful, but there's also lots of history behind many toombstones, and all sorts of urban legends to discover. For the full benefit of the two last ones, a good guide to the cemetary is invaluable.

The place is not at all like a Romantic English cemetary, there's more marble than trees, but even that stone forest entices you to roam in a quiet, personal world. I liked it a lot.

All around the outside wall of the cemetary, a sort of 'Frontier Land' has been built that looks very false, of course. It attracts tourists and rich-looking Portenos, and the atmosphere is just like anywhere else in the Western world (in case you get homesick.)

There was a cool Dixie Band at the entrance and that made my day!

Los primeros dias de nuestra luna de miel fueron en Buenos Aires, ciudad fantastica y por sobre todo con un servicio gastronomico de pelicula , muy ricas y deliciosas carnes, la atencion en cada restaurant fue excelente digna de elogios

Cemeterio Recoleta is ornate and beautiful. Any visit to it is worth the time. However, my very first visit was 5 minutes before they closed the gates. I was able to get one of the staff to keep the gate open for me and my father (since he would not have a repeat opportunity due to a flight the following morning). We walked around for about 45min with the groundsman who was very friendly, giving us information, and ultimately refused a tip. The setting sun added some beautiful reds and ambers to the sky and reflections off of the polished stones.

I visited the cemetery again twice, and was able each time to persuade them to let me in even as the gates were closing. I hope you can be so lucky!!

Recoleta has lots of things to offer it has a big park, which transforms to a flea market on weekends. Try browsing around you will find a bargain or two even for fancy jewelries. If you're a catholic try visiting Our Lady of the Pillar Church just across the park, it has a fascinating gold guilded altar, on weekdays they open the church's museum and you will find antique religious artifacts. From the church windows if it's open (if close try to ask if they could open it for you) you could get a good view of the Recoleta cementery. Yes, Recoleta Cementery is next to the church and here, you'll find english guides to take you around. If not just follow the crowd and you'll find Evita's tomb.

Across from the park, there are many fine restaurants to try, mostly offering grilled argentinian beef, not to miss if you're fond of succulent meats. Try the El Parrillon restaurant, you can even see them cook your beef right before your eyes. These restaurants open at 8:00 but also serves lunch. There is also a small Havana coffee shop across the park, try sipping a cup of Joe and indulge yourself on their dulce de leche cookies, I personally like the Galletina, small cookies wrapped in chocolate.

4 more images

This was very interesting as it is like a miniature city of mausoleums, many different types of architecture and it appears that there are different neighborhoods matching heritages. Admission is free and you can visit the church connected next door

I am not usually into cemeteries but apparently this is on of the tourist "highlights" in Buenos Aires. This is a chance to see how the other half live... ha ha. This is where the very rich or the very famous are buried and they like to go out in style. The most notable of which is Eva Peron. Be prepared for large crowds and flag waving tour guides. Is it worth it? You decide!!

4 more images

Uncommon thing to do at other places,this cemetary however attracts flocks of tourist to visit "homes" of the famous dead people..Was told that it is one of the most expensive cemetary to be in, and it only reserve for great names like the President or the General etc.
One of the main interest here is of the Evita Peron (Eva Maria Duarte).She was not being buried in the Peron's instead to her family that is Duarte's.So if Evita you're searching for its all the way to your left after the entrance then turn right about 10 blocks go left.
It is numbered 57 (if im not mistaken) on the map.There is not a single signboard to the Evita's

Please check out the map first before entering the cemetary,cuz it is big,and you can get lost in searching specific homes.

Recoleta is one of the most exclusive district in the town, so you can also find the ebst restaurant of Buenos Aires, they are all in front of the Cemetery, there is also a very old church, it was there before the Cemetery in 1732, Nuestra Señora del Pilar Church, there is also a huge construction which used to be a Conventry, now it is the impressive Centro Cultural Buenos Aires, there are charming cafés there too, and in the lovely gardening square you can find a very interesting antiques fair in the weekends. And if you are a Hard Rock Cafe fan, you can find one branch exactly in Recoleta!

SEP - FORTH WEEK - 2005