San Telmo, Buenos Aires

When we again returned to Buenos Aires, after spending the previous 8-days split between Iguazu Falls and the Andes Mountains near Mendoza, we spent our last time in the City properly exploring the historic San Telmo district! This district is one of the oldest in the city and originally housed the elite, until an outbreak of Yellow Fever in 1871 drove them further afield to Palermo. However, the narrow streets and interesting houses of this 'protected' area are well worth a stroll.

After finishing a great pub meal in nearby Plaza Dorrego, we came upon the mid-1700s Baroque-style Jesuit convent Iglesia Nuestra Senora de Belen. Part of the old convent was later turned into a prison for women, which has since become the Museo Penitenciario Nacional.

Because the steets are so narrow here, and with the old Magnolia trees in full foliage, I could only manage to capture one of the two identical steeples in my shot! The prison museum is attached to the right of this view of the convent.

2 more images

San Telmo is exactly the place where you can find whatever are you looking for. Yes, it's an old bazaar with all types of antiques and peculiarities stuff that cannot be found on the stores, only in the bargain bazaars like that.

It's very traditional and a typical tourist trip, very nice and funny!

4 more images

Durante el día es un café donde puedes imaginarte que vas a charlar con Borges , Alfonsina Storni , Quinquela , " Carlos"... , pues aquí es donde ellos se reunían y tenían su tertulia Tomar un café , ver la barbería , el teatro y el salón te transporta a otras épocas
Por la noche en el teatro tienen un espectáculo de tango
During the day it is a coffee where you can imagine that you are chatting with Borges , Alfonsina Storni , Quinquela , " Carlos"... , because here is where they met and had their gathering
To take a coffee , to see the barbershop , the theater and the main salon it takes you to other days
At night in the theater they have a Tango show

En el pasaje de San Lorenzo está la Casa Mínima, una de las más llamativas y pequeñas viviendas de la Argentina
El frente mide tan sólo tres metros , pero las paredes que miden 0,45 m reducen el espacio interior a 2,10m . La casa , que conserva el más auténtico estilo colonial , tiene una puerta de entrada y una solo ventana con un pequeño balcón en la planta alta . Agradable, cuidada y llena de plantas , su dueño Cesar Otero dice que "la casa fue construida en 1813 y que un patrón se la concedió a su esclavo cuando éste, por ley, consiguió la libertad"
Está enfrente de los apartamentos Aire San Telmo.
In San Lorenzo passage it is the Minimum House , one of the most curious and smaller of Argentina
The front measures three meters , but the walls of 0,45 m reduce this internal width to 2,10 m . The house , that maintains the authentic colonial style , has an entrance door and only one window with a small balcony in the upper level. Nice , well kept , and full of flowers .
His owner Cesar Otero says that " the house was built on 1813 and that a patron gave it to one slave when , by law , he became free
It is in front of the Aire San Telmo apartments

3 more images

Los fines de semana se llena de vida el barrio de San Telmo , especialmente los domingos en que se monta alrededor de la plaza Dorrego una feria de antiguedades en la que se puede encontrar aparte de todo tipo de cosas , gente muy simpática y como no los hay que se dedican también a bailar tangos
The week ends San Telmo District becomes full of life , mainly on Sundays that around Dorego square they install an Antiques Fair where you may find besides all kind of things , very curious people and of course some of them are also dedicated to dance tango

2 more images

En San Telmo siempre hay alguna fiesta . Cuando llegamos por primera vez al apartamento nos asustamos , pues debajo de nuestra ventana había una gran "movida" , pero afortunadamente se prepararon allí y luego estuvimos muy tranquilos
En San Telmo there is always some festival . When we arrived first time to the apartment we were surprised , as under the window there were a big movement , but luckily they prepared there and later on they move and we were very quite

The way to San Telmo's Plaza Dorrego, to me, is best experienced by walking there.

From Plaza de Mayo, you can find Calle Defensa and take a slow walk along it. After crossing Avenida Belgrano, you will enter the relatively charming neighbourhood of San Telmo. Along this road, you will find countless antique shops selling all things old (and somewhat tacky) - from someone's antique furniture to faded posters to cheesy half-broken toys. Besides shops, there are some market-areas as well. To me, it is really quite fun to soak in the nostalgic mood here.

It is around this area that you can find more of the charming old-style traditional cafe-bars. My favourite one here is Bar Seddon at Defensa 695.

After enjoying the Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego, suggest that you, why not, press on down Defensa til you reach Parque Lezama. Although not the prettiest park, it is a very local park, sometimes, there is a simple handicraft fair but most of the time, you will find elderly portenos enjoying a game of chess or some chit-chats and families out for a weekend picnic.

San Telmo is a special highlight whenever visiting "Paris" of Latin America.
At the edge there is a plate : "Republica de San Telmo - refugio de la Amistad y la alegria"
In many travel guides, the Tango dancer and his group of dancers and musicians are shown.
In other words, a legend