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There are several peculiar characters in San Telmo, especially on Sunday mornings, at the open market; among them, there are some living statues; my favourite one was this original "Carlos Gardel", with his pedestal and his rapport.
Hay numerosos personajes peculiares en San Telmo, especialmente los domingos de mañana, en la feria de antigüedades; entre ellos, hay varia estatuas vivientes; mi favorita fue este original "Carlos Gardel", con su pedestal y su simpatía.
I stayed in this bario whilst I was in Buenos Aires (on my January 2010 & 2011 trips). San Telmo has an antiguo and bohemian feel to it with its traditional architecture and this is where you can enjoy people watching at the many bars, cafes and restaurants in the area. You can watch the free tango and milonga at the Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo's main square. San Telmo is famous for the Feria de San Telmo, an antiques market, that is held on Sundays.
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Another charming neighborhood in BA is San Telmo. While it was once full of the city's elite, the neighborhood fell on hard times in the late 19th century and for the next hundred years or so was home to mostly the poor and downtrodden who lived in tenements. Then in 1970s the city decided to restore some of the area's architectural landmarks and suddenly it began to become hip. Artists and antique shops began to fill the area and today it has a slightly rough around the edges, Bohemian feel (in fact, I had dinner here one night with a local who indicated that some streets are not safe at night, so stay in the busier areas after dark).
There are many good restaurants and great tango clubs throughout San Telmo and on Sunday mornings the city's best antique market is held in Plaza Dorrego from 10am to 5pm. This plaza is the second oldest in the city (next to Plaza de Mayo) and is a great place to enjoy an evening meal at an outdoor cafe or to watch street performers dancing the tango.
San Telmo : Conventillo Pasaje de la Defensa
On Defensa, beween the plaza Dorrego and Av. San Juan, there is the nicest "conventillo" (collective house) opened to the public and now refurbished as a shopping gallery : a really nice example of the upper class mansion abandonated during the yellow fever and then inhabited by immigrants and their large families. originally built for the Ezeiza family in 1880, the two-story, three-patio edifice once housed 32 families. In this "conventillo", there are three different inner courts and one have a tree inside : the "patio del arbol".
the old district
This is the old neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, with many colonial buildings to see and a lot of narrow small coblestone streets to walk!
I was really lucky visit the area during easter because it was car free (something very rare in BsAs) so I had a different view of the area. I noticed a lot of good cafes, restaurants, old churches, many antique shops and a dozen of street artists in every corner.
The best moment to visit the are is on Sunday because there is the Sunday antique street market at plaza Dorrego. The market spread over Defensa street so I was walking up and down calle Defensa with thousands other visitors, locals and tourists. The vibe was great with music coming from everywhere, people having fun, dancing and shopping of course!. I couldn’t believe how many people danced tango here…
San Telmo : the old neighborhood
San Telmo is the city's second oldest neighborhood after Montserrat.
It was inhabited by aristocratic families (they built large colonial houses) until the yellow fever disease in 1871.
As it was born around the city’s primitive port, San Telmo was soon invaded by the XIXth century immigration wave, with which its streets’ physiognomy started to change notoriously. Large houses belonging to well-connected people turned into “conventillos” (tenement houses), housing numerous families who had occupied them and lived crammed together. These immigrants, mainly devoted to crafts and commerce, imprinted their customs to this place, that was since then characterised by its street markets and its commercial trend. San Telmo was revalued from 1970 onwards. The old buildings were overhauled and those which were more than 100 years old were declared historic patrimony.
This neighborhood is my favourite one because it kept this old magic atmosphere with its cobble stone streets, low houses with barred windows and iron balconies, lanterns that light up in the evening, antique stores, colonial houses with inside court (conventillos) and old timers!!!
The streets I prefered are Defensa and Bolivar...and the ones who are paved with stones...really picturesque!!
The centre is the Plaza Dorrego where there is a flea market and a tango show on Sunday afternoon.
People say that San Telmo is the place where tango was born (together with La Boca)... There are also a lot of bars and establishments that offer shows and praticas to practice a few steps to the sound of the bandoneon.
It is also the a tourism center but if you go a little bit further than the Plaza Dorrego, you will have a genuine San Telmo atmosphere ;)
San Telmo is the "bohemian" Bs As neighbourhood, you can buy antiques and most other Tango souvenirs...
I recommend a little restaurant (bodegon style) "El desnivel" , with delicious and abundant food, and a funny enviroment (ideal for backpackers ), You can have dinner for U$4 , beverages includes.
- Arts and Culture
San Telmo : Plaza Dorrego
A historical spot where carriages used to stop, Plaza Dorrego is today San Telmo's centre. After Plaza de Mayo, it is the oldest square in the city. Antique shops, fine artists and many tourists gather around the street market on Sundays. There a a flea market on Sunday and also tango exhibitions. The square is surrounded by trees; which gives a mediterranean atmosphere and by renotavetd old colonial buildings.
San Telmo street
My last evening in Bs Aires ... i wanted to enjoy one more time of San Telmo quarter and i met with a local friend there ( Abril VT member ) we drank some beers in Dorrego quarter and chilling a lot with his boyfriend and a girlfriend of her...
San telmo take refuge to the Bohemian feelings and its like a small city inside a huge one....its a shelter for those who love a quiet life into a big one and crowded city wherever
you go !
on the second pic ...its a local map typed on the street wall representing San Telmo independent republic... with all the streets and highlights
Visit the pasaje la Defensa
At calle Defensa 1179 there is the entrance to this old pasaje, or courtyard. Once an old aristocratic house, later a tenement for immigrants, it now houses a series of shops selling antiques and curiosities. Even if you have no interest in shopping, it is worth a few moments to take in the historic atmosphere.
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This is a real must, San Telmo/Plaza Dorego
Music and Tango dancing, artists, street workers, antique shops, flea shops
Unique experience and a real thing to do
The flea market is open on Sunday, no cars allowed, pedestrians and bikers only, just for you to feel BsAs in the heart.
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Bar Plaza Dorrego - San Telmo's best known cafe
Despite the flood of visitors to this popular cafe on the plaza, Bar Plaza Dorrego still maintains much of its charm and character. Wood panelled walls, dim lighting and a good cafe cortado draw in old timers and tourists from all over.
- Hiking and Walking
- Historical Travel
- Arts and Culture
San Telmo & Plaza Dorrego
San Telmo is a barrio where the historic buildings are under a protection order and where you will find many of the tango and jazz clubs of the city. In the daylight hours it is a shopping area for antiques.
Every Sunday there is a flea market and an antiques fair in Dorrego Square. And, as part of the rhythm of the city you will find at the corners of the square tango dancers giving public performances. Sunday brings a fun atmosphere (along with every tourist in the city) to this epicenter of the tango world.
San Telmo is a historic neighborhood that grew in 18th century as the resting place for the merchants coming back from Plaza de Mayo. Up to the second half of the 19th century (when severe yellow fever epidemic broke out) it was the place where rich families would live. Than, the poor europen immigrants, mostly Italians, started to settle down here.
It's one of the most representative areas of the city: in few square blocks we can find 18th, 19th and 20th century buildings. San Telmo preserves its small (many of them having 1 storey) colonial homes with forged iron gates, and its skinny paved streets.
In the 60s many artists - fascinated by the historic surrounds and the architecture of San Telmo - brought their ateliers here. From that time on the bohemian spirit of this area makes it attractive both for locals and foreigners. Every weekend there is and antique fair held in Plaza Dorrego, you can also see tango dancers on the streets here or just sit in one of many bars and soak up the atmosphere.
San Telmo : Lezama Park
This is the place of the first foundation of the city done by the Spanish navigator Pedro de Mendoza in 1536. The park is quite nice with high trees and a historical house in the middle. There are also outdoor chessboards attracting game specialists!!! Maybe are they from Russia??? (There is an orthodox church next to it!)
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