If you find yourself at this restaurant, you may very well be the only non-Brazilian there. That is parially due to the fact that it is located down a nondescript residential street, in an unassuming neighborhood. And it is due to the fact that it does not advertise to the general tourists, but rather it is a local's only place.
It is open ~11:30am to ~11pm. But with this, particularly on the summer days, it fills up quickly. People will come out to the Niteroi beaches, pack up their bags early and come here as the sun sets and try to beat the rest of the crowds. It is worth it, even if you do have to wait.
Favorite Dish: The seafood and fish dishes are their specialty, but they do offer steaks. It is a meat heavy menu, so vegetarians should not even both coming.
The dishes are all large enough to not only serve two people, but possibly three to four as well. This delicious camarao no coco verde (shrimp in green coconut) is rich, creamy and so wonderful. It is served with a rice in coconut cream. It may look small, but it can feed two to three people.
Simply put, the best food in Niteroi. Granted, it is a bit more expensive, but the traditional Portuguese cuisine here holds true to the traditions and cultural heritage of the area.
One of the dining rooms has many old family photos of the owners when they were young and opening the restaurant. Now grey haired and wrinkled, they still present the food with smiles and maintain the lasting quality.
They restaurant is one of the few with a more traditional and elegant presentation. Wood tables have large wine glasses, white linen napkins and soft lighting. It is a place that those who appreciate fine food should go.
Favorite Dish: Everything is good here. Well, maybe good is not the right word, but more excellent. The fish, in any form, is the signature of the house, but steak and chicken is available.
My personal favorite is the grilled octopus with garlic, and broccoli rice. It simply melts in your mouth.
The small neighborhood of Jurujuba in Niteroi is a fishing village. It is at the the end of the road, at the other side of the small bay, therefore it is quiet, a bit secluded and offers a nice view of Niteroi/Icarai on the opposite side.
There are a couple restaurants here, but Berbigao is my favorite. The interior is nothing fancy, but the staff are nice and the food is very good. It is open until ~11:30pm Sunday through Thursday. They are open until ~1am on Friday and Saturday.
Favorite Dish: All of the dishes are good, but my personal favorites are some of their dishes influenced from Bahia. They do a great fish moquecas with and without shrimp. The various seafood dishes are great too. Most dishes are based on 2-people, however if you ask nicely, they will make small individual and/or sampler size dishes.
I've always over indulged in the main plates, so I cannot speak for the desserts.
The market sells fish on the lower level and has restaurants on the upper levels. For a small fee, you can buy the fresh catch below and have them prepare it upstairs along with side dishes, salads, etc.
Even if you don't want to dine-in, the market sells the freshest and cheapest fish and seafood in town. Even without a meal in mind, it is a worth while stop to walk the market and see (and smell) the sights.
Saturday lunch time is best since it gets busy later at night and Sunday is a popular family day and similarly gets very busy.
Favorite Dish: There are a few varieties of shrimp to find, ranging from B$13 ~ 24 /kg.
Salmon and other exotic fish may be more expensive at R$35 / kg
Fish like Dorado and Bacalao are maybe B$25/kg
Plan on about 1/2 kg of food per person depending on your hunger. Including the fee to cook the fish, average price will come out to be ~B$20 per person, plus drinks.
This little gelato shop has lured me in almost every time I've walked by. The price might be a couple Reil more than other ice cream shops, but honestly, the gelato here is well worth it. Rich and creamy with real chunks of whatever flavor you choose.
It is located just off of Rua Coronel Moreira Cézar, which is one of the main walking streets with lots of shopping and boutiques. After shopping all day, or baking on the beach, its a nearby solution to cool down.
Their posted hours are until 10pm, but I've been there until midnight, so their hours may just be suggestions.
Favorite Dish: I'm a fan of all things chocolate, so have to say it is a good option. Also the dulce de laite is good.
If you prefer more fruity flavors, the coconut and strawberry are good. I was a bit surprised but the strawberry cheesecake was delicious.
Da Carmine's is a good little Italian restaurant. Inside, with the exception of the Portuguese being spoken, you'd almost forget that you are in Brazil.
The ambiance it nice and sometimes they have live (soft) music, like a harp or guitar.
The restaurant is casual, but could also be slightly romantic if you wanted to be. The staff and the menu are only in Portuguese, so bring a dictionary or friend if you need to.
Favorite Dish: The pizzas are good, but I will advise that they are very thin. A regular guy could eat nearly a complete one all by themselves.
Personally, I'm a fan of their ham (prosciutto) and artichoke.
This is a restaurant that seems to present itself as very sleek and hype, with more than a price to match - its interior is pleasant enough, but the service is appaling and very cold, no wonderful Brazilian smiles here darling!! The sushi we chose was good, combinados boat for 3 people, included sushi, shashim, california roll, sakemaki, and kappamaki. The little deep tanned server got the adding up wrong (or deliberately), so if we didnt check we would have paid more!