One thing you should do while in El Cocuy is to visit National Park headquarters. Even if you are not going to the park, they have a lot of information about it. Don't expect a true visitor center with a lot of displays. It's a small operation but the people who run it are very helpful. You will need some Spanish skills as they do not speak much if any English. They have us a lot of help in planning our treks and let us leave our extra bags there when we went out trekking for over a week. If you are going into the park, even for just a day, this is the place to pay your park entrance as there is nowhere to do it in the park itself. This permit is constantly going up and was 34000 COP (about $17) when we were there in early 2010. It is considerably more for non-Colombians and compared to everything else in the country is very expensive by local standards but if at least some of this money helps to maintain this magnificent park it's worth supporting. The infrastructure in the park is not all that extensive and there are private businesses run in the park so it's easy to feel this is extortionate but don't let that distract you from enjoying your visit.
El Cocuy is not a big town and there are no particular attractions aside from the magnificent countryside. That said, the buildings that comprise this charming little town are quite pretty and photogenic. For a small town, it is very well-maintained with every building very freshly painted in white with a nice green trim. Though very uniform, it adds just the right touch of color to a town that could otherwise be bland. If you are lucky to be there on a very sunny day with blue skies it is actually stunning. The best time to capture it is early morning when there are few locals out and about. For a mountain town, the people of El Cocuy are late risers and the light is perfect and warm on all the buildings.
Of course, the few who venture to El Cocuy are coming to visit its namesake National Park and to see stunning displays of nature but the town itself is a pretty place to stop if even briefly. As with all throwbacks to the Colonial age, the main square is always the star attraction and El Cocuy is no different. Lined on three sides with pretty white Colonial buildings with green trim, its centerpiece is La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Paz which is set off well by its salmon coloring. It's interior offers a nice respite from the blaring sun at midday and while not spectacular is nicely ornamented.