Tabio Things to Do

Five years ago when visiting Tabio it was a beautiful quiet little town with wonderful shops for tourists to shop for arts and crafts. This trip I looked forward to seeing it again, but was highly disappointed. While other small towns in Colombia have taken advantage of the increased security in traveling the roads and the increase in tourism to make their towns more attractive for the tourist, Tabio seems to have done the opposite.

Craft and artisian shops are slowly being replaced by beer drinking joints. One resident commented that the local plannacion will give permission to anyone to open a questionable establishment who bribes them with enough money. A quiet town square where I remember relaxing and enjoy an obleja and gave me a wonder view of the mountains has now transformed into a noisy playground for youths and young adults skateboarding, playing soccer, drinking beer and just delinquently hanging around. The view of the green mountains has been obliterated by huge plastic sided, metal roof monstrosity of a building. The peaceful weekend evening was broken by inebriated youths with huge car audio systems blasting music that can easily be heard more than 3 blocks away. And it continued for hours. A 19 year resident of the town said, it was never like that before the last to town alcaldes (mayors).

I first noticed the difference when driving in from the North of Bogota. The before peaceful street now clogged with rowdy people. Many could be seen sitting at outside tables filled with empty beer bottles while others with bottles in hand hung around. The owner of a nearby shop told me of more than once finding drunk people still sleeping the next morning with their backs against the building wall and bottles nearby. An elderly long time resident told me they had spoken with a recently transferred police commandante about it. According to the resident, the commendante stated that with the town mayor allowing the drinking establishments to operate so late in such a manner that it was difficult for them to keep up with policing the drunks and associated problems. A young officer said the mayor had instructed them not to enforce some laws.

There are still many craft shops open around the town square, but their quality and uniqueness seems to have dropped since my last visit while the prices have risen.

This is not to say there are not a few gems of places to visit in town. One block over from the town square is a beautiful coffee shop/bakery called Don Hornero. It was the cleanest place of its kind in town. The husband and wife owners even speak English. For a true Colombia food experience I enjoyed a restaurant called Don Olerios. It is located about 2 or 3 blocks from the town square going toward the church on the hill. Do not expect anything fancy or even a menu. Mostly open only on weekends the food for breakfast and lunch is excellent featuring ajiaco, Tamal, and three meats with yucca and platano. For a taste palate treat of Colombian food with a little more atmosphere you need to take the road that goes to Rio Frio before getting to Tabio. There approximately a couple miles past where the road forks you will find a hidden driveway to a place called La Dalia. It is well-decorated featuring tasty dishes in the 12,000 to 16,000 pesos range. Again an added benefit is owners who speak fluent English.

While I would have recommended a stop in Tabio before, now for a pleasurable time and good shopping a tourist is better off to pass Tabio and go to Raquira or Villa de Leyva.

The manicured town square spreads out peacefully with a few good craft shops and is well known locally for its great desserts. The old church has a great view and just down the hill around the corner you'll find a well tended old cemetary that's worth a visit.

The town has a major portion of its reputation as a tourist destination based on its thermal baths that are municipally run a short walk from the downtown square. Ask any local and they will point the way.

I did Tabio as a day trip, but once I got there wished I'd made arrangments for a much longer stay. Although only an hour north of Bogota, its peacefully tucked in a valley between the mountains with lush green views in every direction.