First thing you need to know about Capurgana is that this is a tiny place, this is not a 70 mile beach like South Beach to West Palm Beach or the Australian Gold Coast. Here you just walk! Let's start north. Two options, short walk to "Gods Pool" or long walk to La Miel via Sapzurro. To the Gods Pool just follow the trail where the main beach ends....more
If you go to Sapzurro... you have to get to Panama at least for a little while!There's a little trail going up the hill that heads to La Miel, the first village in the Panama's side. You need to carry an ID if you want to cross the border... even though that's not a custom office, there's a little militar check point at the very top of the hill.La...more
The boat from Capurgana to Puerto Obaldia leaves at the flightdays at about 0700AM and will cost about 25.000 per pers. You have to "book" it the day before - just go to the waterfront and ask for the boatdriver...The flight from Puerto Obaldia to Panama City costs USD 80,38.-(tax incl.) and you can:- book it online and pay with creditcard...more
If you've visited Capurganá before ... you probably know that all the immigration paper-work had to be done in Turbo. There used to be nothing in Capurganá ...
Well ... that "used to" is very proper! There's even an airport there now!!
So ... my point, if you're heading south from Puerto Obaldía (Panama), you need to get your passport stamped in Capurganá. If you go to do it in Turbo, they will send you back to Capurganá or make you pay a very expensive 'ticket'. So, either way you'll lose a lot of money.
There is a really nice trail leading from Capurgana to Sapzurro! In the village just take the trail left of the school and then... ask somebody for the trail... When you have it, you can't loose it again!It's about 1 1/2 hours on a muddy djungletrail. On the highest point (about half the way) you have a nice view to Sapzurro and to Capurgana! From...more
Capurgana is full of military and police, but it's actually a really nice little place to relax and, most of all, scuba dive. The corrals are beautiful, the sea is clear and full of marine life and it's so warm!! (All right, most of you won't be surprised by this, but I learned to scuba dive in Monterey, CA, and Capurgana was my first warm water dive :). The dive master is a very nice guy, too, like most of the folks there.
It's 75,000 Colombian Pesos (currently about US$26).
I can't remember the name of the dive club, but it's NOT the one from Hotel Almar. I don't think it's associated to any of the hotels.
Equipment: He's got everything you need.
If you like to nag when you arrive at your 5 star hotel because the shampoo is cheap or your towel is not folded right, Capurganá is not for you. Capurgana is for the rest of us who like it simple. Capurgana is in the middle of a long uncommunicated land, no cars or trucks. No Fedex next day delivery, no logistics but 99% pure! 20 years ago the natives lived like a mattogrosso tribe with little contact with the outside world. Life was slow and coconuts were the currency bartered for cooking oil, rice and salt. Today tourism upgraded Capurgana with cell phones, boats and scuba... oops... no 5 star restaurant yet! But we love the crushed fried plantains with shrimp, the lemon red snapper and the cigua snails.
Fondest memory: Walk, walk and walk... with your comfortable sneakers (no sandals). If the sea is rough (Dec-May) walk to the "Pool of the Gods" and with the wind in your face take a marvelous picture of Cabo Tiburon. Don't even think of getting near the water or you might end visiting Poseidon forever. Next day you should try a longer trip to "Heaven" and you may cheat the rest of your party taking a burro taxi. This is a close encounter with the real jungle. The third day well fed and looking forward for some exercise take the trail to Sapzurro, the town next to the border. Its is going to be tough! If you are overweight forget it and take the boat instead. If you take the boat you will miss the spectacular view of Sapzurro bay from the mountain and the waterfall. After having lunch it is time to visit Panama... Panama the country, not the city! It is just a 1/4 mile up th..e moun..ta..in. Please!! I... ne..ed oxy...gen. This trail is too steep! Yes! that's what happens if your only exercise back home is clicking a mouse with your index finger all day, next time go to the gym and treadmill at least 3 miles a day before attempting the Capurgana-Sapzurro-La Miel trail!