One day the weather was not so good for the beach. After delicious lunches in El Almendro and a coffee with Javier in the garden next to his house I decided to take a walk through the village to take some pictures. I passed by the bar on the beach when suddenly realized there was Rosario, a lady that I stayed in her beautiful house in Triganá on my first day. She was with her friend Diana, a Colombian living in Germany, who just came to Triganá for a visit and to spend holidays there. We were quite glad to meet again and this bar by the sea was perfect to chill out and some girls chat ;)
Sometimes they play music at night and people are dancing. It seemed they had a lot of fun. Though I never went there at night but only during the day while on the beach.
Favorite Dish: We all had Aguila beer, most common Colombian beer.
The day when I went on a hike to La Poza de los Reyes I was going to meet Veronica and Vianelly Valencia at Princesa Dobaibe, a picturesque eco village with cabañas and a large area for camping. There is also a bar, restaurant and shop. Walls of the building are decorated with colourful paintings of fruit and seafood, made by Martha's husband Martin Jaramillo. Situated in Aldea del Arte, a very quiet area facing the Caribbean sea, the place is unique for those looking for tranquility.
From San Pacho I was accompanied by Javier (the owner of cabaña Tierra Luna where I was staying) and Lilian. The friendly owner Martha (whom I met a previous night) was already waiting for us with a cup of hot Colombian coffee. It did not take long until the girls arrived and soon after the three of us left.
Favorite Dish: During my stay in San Pacho we had a beer at Princesa Dobaibe several times, always accompanied by Martha. I liked the relaxed ambience of the place and felt like I came to visit a friend and not in a bar or restaurant.
After a long but very pleasant hike from San Pacho we finally arrived in Titumate. We still had more than one hour before taking the boat back to San Pacho. Quite hungry as we were, we asked some local people if there were a place where we could have lunch. They told us about Golfo Darién which seemed to be the only restaurant in the village. Brightly painted yellow and pink house, located close to the seafront, it wasn't difficult to find it.
Golfo Darién is a small family run place. In front of the house is an open space with a thatched roof. But since there were no chairs we had to seat inside. We arranged with the owner about the food and then went to the seashore, until they called us when the lunch was ready.
Favorite Dish: There weren't much choice. Meat and fish were the only options, along with the beans soup to start. As usually, I opted for the fish, others had meat. The dishes were accompanied by rice and salad (which I did not eat because I doubted they were using about the quality of the water they used to wash it). For the same reason I had a beer instead of a fruit juice.
The food was quite good (I especially liked the soup), the service friendly and it was cheap. After we finished we took another beer to take with us while waiting for the boat.
I came across El Almendro already the first day when I took a hike from Triganá to San Pacho. I immediately liked this brightly painted little wooden cabin situated by the sea. The place has only a few tables and chairs, and they are in in bright colours as well. The toilet is in a separate tiny cabin next to it. I asked Rockelina, the owner, if she could prepare meals for me while I will be staying in San Pacho.
The next day I moved to San Pacho and was pleasantly surprised when Javier, the owner of the cabaña where I was staying, brought me to the same place to arrange my meals. Rockelina said it was fine for her. I just had to tell her in advance whether I would like to have lunch or/and dinner (I always had breakfast). She told what was available that day, I chose the menu and we agreed about the time. When I had special wishes about my meals and she did not have all the ingredients, she always tried to arrange things for the next day.
Though I was usually the only guest who had a meal, I was never alone. While having my meals I was often accompanied by Rockelina's children. Local people use to meet here for a beer or to play cards. After coming here day by day, El Almendro also became a base of my social life in San Pacho. I met quite a few really nice and friendly locals.
more pics in the travelogue
Favorite Dish: My breakfast were either patacones or arepa, both accompanied by white cheese, and hot chocolate. After finishing one cup of this delicious drink Rockelina always poured me another cup. And for lunch and dinner I had either arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp) or fish. When I had arroz con camarones here for the first time the dish came with french fries and mixed salad with some kind of dressing that I don't eat (but the locals do love them both). I talked to Rockelina and next time she made a salad only with lime juice and and no french fries. With fish I always had arroz con coco (coconut rice) which I love, tostones (fried plantains) which I love too, and carrot salad with lime juice.
Breakfast was 3.000 - 4.000 COP and lunch/dinner 6.000 - 8.000 COP (December 2009). A soft drink was included in the price of a lunch/dinner. But I usually had a beer instead.
Rockelina is a very nice lady and the best cook in the area. I can only praise her cooking abilities and most delicious dishes that she was preparing. Hope to be back to San Pacho, also to be able to taste her culinary delights again :)