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 Terraced foundations of Ciudad Perdida by jungles The ruins of Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City) are hidden deep in the jungle amidst the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range. Though they were always known to the local Tayrona indians, they were only 'discovered' by the outside world after a group of graverobbers came across them in 1972. This place is only for the adventurous and fit; it requires a three-day hike through the jungle and a climb up 1200 moss-covered stone steps to reach the city, which was founded between 500 and 700 A.D. and was the centre of the Tayrona culture. Once you finally make it there, you will be rewarded with incredible vistas of jungle-covered mountains and cascading waterfalls. The ruins themselves consist mainly of terraced foundations, as the buildings were made of wood and have long since rotted away. Still, it is incredibly beautiful. The journey there is fascinating as well; besides taking in the beautiful scenery, you will have the chance to visit traditional Tayrona villages and to see the many acres of illegal coca growing on the mountain slopes. You may even get to visit a 'cocaine factory.' The return journey normally takes six days, though if you're in a real rush it's possible to do it in five. You must have a guide and permit, which can be arranged at the Turcol office in Santa Marta. For more information, see my Ciudad Perdida page. Directions: Tours start from Santa Marta, about two hours north of Cartagena.
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 Sanctuary of Las Lajas by jungles This spectacularly situated church is built right into the side of a canyon over the Rio Guaitara. It is decorated in a neo-Gothic style on the outside, and on the inside the main altar is carved directly into the rock face of the canyon. This is a popular pilgrimage site for Catholics from both Colombia and nearby Ecuador. Directions: From Ipiales, take a colectivo taxi from the corner of Carrera 6 and Calle 4, US$1 per person. Ipiales is on the Pan-American highway, just 2km from the border with Ecuador.
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 Trees covered in Spanish moss (Tillandsia) by jungles San Gil is a pleasant colonial town and is popular among Colombians as a place to try out some adventure sports such as white-water rafting, parapenting, and caving. Prices for these activities are cheap compared to other countries. There are several offices of adventure sport companies just outside the gate to El Gallineral, an attractive riverside park filled with trees covered in Spanish moss (see photo). For those who have never been rafting before, there is a very easy excursion along the river that runs through the park, good for people travelling with children but also fun for adults. For more serious rafters, other excursions can also be arranged, including multi-day trips through the Rio Chicamocha canyon. San Gil is also the place to catch a connecting bus to the very quiet and peaceful colonial village of Barichara.
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Barichara is a lovely colonial town that has been designated as a national monument, thus no modern buildings are allowed, and the town looks much as it would have when it was first built in 1714. All the houses are painted in the characteristic two-tone style and have overhanging roofs. It is a pleasure to walk around the cobblestone streets, though the town is quite small (population 10,000) and very quiet, so there's not much to do once you've admired the Cathedral, the other three churches, and the home of the former president Aquiles Parra. There is an attractive waterfall called the Salto de Mica about a thirty-minute walk away along a trail with good views of the surrounding scenery, though the water is polluted and a bit smelly. Directions: 22km from San Gil, accessible by bus.
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 Statues in San Agustin by jungles San Agustin is a small village close to the 'Valley of the Statues,' a broad term used for several nearby archeological sites where hundreds of stone figures of men, animals, and gods have been found. It is the largest group of religious monuments and megalithic sculptures in South America. These statues are thought to have been carved between 100 and 1200 A.D., though very little is known about the culture that created them. The most accessible statues are those within the Parque Arqueologico, which has been developed for tourism and has gravel footpaths connecting the various sites. More statues can be found further afield along trails either on foot or on horseback, but enquire about safety before attempting this on your own. Several companies in town offer guided tours to these areas. Within the park itself there are several groups of statues that have been left in situ, though the ones in the 'Bosque de las Estatuas' have been moved and rearranged. In addition to the statues, there are also some interesting rock carvings in a stream bed called 'Fuente de Lavapatas.'
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Cartagena is absolutely gorgeous. The view on the ride from the airport into town may be a bit of a letdown, but once you enter the old walls of the inner city you will be blown away. I have seen many beautiful Spanish colonial cities, but this one tops them all. The buildings have been meticulously restored and painted in vibrant colours, and it's a pleasure just to wander aimlessly through the streets under the many overhanging balconies. There are several churches, plazas, and museums of interest, though the inner city is small and can be easily covered in a couple of days. Outside the walls, Cartagena's coast is also a beach resort destination that is popular with the package tour crowd, though it baffles me why anyone would stay in one of the concrete aparment blocks on the beach rather than the beautiful old city. Boat trips out to the coral archipelago of the Islas del Rosario are also popular. Be warned that Cartagena gets very hot in summer.
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 Bogota's Cathedral in Plaza Bolivar by jungles Contrary to the image that many people have of Bogota, it is an attractive city filled with colonial buildings, first-rate museums, and a thriving arts and culture scene. While there are impoverished communities on the outskirts that could be dangerous to visit, if you stay away from these areas (and there is nothing of interest there for the casual visitor anyway) you should have no reason to worry. Of course the usual precautions should be taken as in any big city, but Bogota is much safer than many Central American capitals, and certainly much more beautiful. The historic centre called La Candelaria holds the bulk of Bogota's attractions; other places of interest include the Museo de Oro (Gold Museum) and the view from the top of the Monserrate peak. For more info look for my soon-to-come Bogota page.
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 Cross over the main altar by jungles The Salt Cathedral is billed as one of the prime attractions of Colombia. Personally, I can think of many places in Colombia I liked more than this, and I found it to be a bit of a let-down. I suppose it just depends on what you expect. The original underground salt cathedral was built by the salt miners themselves in 1954, and was dedicated to their patron saint, Nuestra Senora del Rosario. Continuing deterioration made it unsafe and it was closed; the new cathedral was opened in December 1995. It is built entirely underground and was created by carving huge open spaces out of the rock salt deposits in the mine. The mine is still in operation today. Prior to visiting, I had pictured intricate decorations carved out of salt on the facade of the cathedral. In fact, there is no facade as such, just a huge space carved out below ground. There are sculptures representing the 14 stations of the cross near the entrance, but they use only straight lines and are not very detailed; they are essentially just crosses. I imagine it's probably impossible to carve with much detail in rock salt. What is impressive is the sheer size of the place. It's also interesting to see how the manipulation of light makes it look like a giant white cross is hanging in thin air above the altar; in fact the cross is carved out of the wall behind. Entry costs US$4 (half-price on Wed.) and includes a guided tour. Directions: Don't listen to locals who tell you that you must take a taxi; the mines and cathedral are only a 15 minute walk from the bus stop.
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 Plaza Mayor by jungles Villa de Leiva is a beautiful colonial town that is very popular with Colombian tourists. The houses are all whitewashed, and the small town is dominated by the oversized Plaza Mayor, one of the largest in the Americas. Besides wandering the streets and admiring the colonial homes, there are also several interesting things to see in the surrounding area, such as a dinosaur fossil and an archeological site with giant phallic symbols. Be warned, hotel prices rise dramatically on the weekends when Bogotanos invade the small town. During the week it is very quiet. For more info look for my soon-to-come Villa de Leiva page. Directions: 40km west of Tunja
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 Main square of Zipaquira by jungles Zipaquira is one of many attractive colonial towns in Colombia, with red-tiled roofs and overhanging balconies. This photo is of the church in the main square. Zipaquira is a salt-mining town, and the main reason to visit is to see the famous Salt Cathedral built inside the mines. Directions: Zipaquira can be reached by bus from Bogota, which takes about 75 minutes. It is also accessible from Tunja by taking a Bogota-bound bus and getting off at La Caro for connection to Zipaquira. In addition, on Saturdays and Sundays there is a tourist train that runs from Bogota to Zipaquira for US$8 (the bus costs US$2 each way).
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