The center of Zaruma consists of a large main square and an adjacent church. The views are outstanding, and at the west end of the main square a local tourist office provides a number of lodging options. We arrived after two days visiting family in Machala with fresh bread, left over slices of steak and cheese we bought at a market the day before. We enjoyed a picnic lunch in the square and ice cream from local shops.
If you walk the town you can see a lot of shops looking really old fashioned, like this one with this colourful presentation.
Outside of Zaruma there are a lot of small mills where people try to get some more gold out of the big stones the big mine companies are not interested in any more. It is a very hard work and they do not earn a lot. And they still work with mercury!
When you arrive by bus from Loja in Portovelo there are Taxis that can drive you to Zaruma. July 2006 it was $ 3 for four of us.