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I saw more llamas in Ecuador than in Perú. Even at the Hacienda, where the business is bulls and horses, they keep a couple of plump light-colored llamas for good luck I guess.
Updated Oct 21, 2007
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Sincholagua (elevation: 5126 m, 16817 ft) is yet another volcano easily identifiable from the viewpoints of trails surrounding the Hacienda.
Updated Sep 22, 2007
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The Páramo - so I've been told - is like a sponge, which absorbs water and releases it in streams that flow all the way down to the Amazon plain (the Oriente).
This high and windy environment is characterized by tall grass, a lot of moss, short gnarled trees, and timid little flowers. It is definitely awe-inspiring, and the thin air is clear and crisp.
Updated Sep 22, 2007
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After signing a waiver (!) 4 other travelers and myself were outfitted with heavy chaps and red ponchos. THEN we were told about the wild bulls, and how to outrun them. Hmm, can I have a green poncho please?
Actually, the four-hour ride was spectacular. Towards the end, as we were about to give up, Cotopaxi finally emerged from its cloud cover.
Our guide was one of the Hacienda partners, a beautiful and tough cowgirl with good English who led us while smoking one single cigarette - which took a while due to the altitude. When I say tough, she was very kind and courteous, but I wouldn't try to steal her horse...
She was, incidentally, planning a trip to the US, to attend an eco-tourism convention.
Updated Sep 11, 2007
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Ruminahui is an extinct volcano with an elevation of 4,634m = 15,200ft, which is very visible from the grounds of Hacienda El Porvenir.
Written Sep 9, 2007
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Cotopaxi, an active volcano, is the emblem of Ecuador. In addition to heavy-duty mountain climbing, there are also daytrips organized from Quito in order to experience the lower part of the snow and ice. I am sorry that I didn't get to do that. Still, enjoying the sight of Cotopaxi on horseback was already pretty exciting.
Elevation 5,897m = 19,347ft
Written Sep 9, 2007
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There are three self-guided trails on the immense grounds of Hacienda El Porvenir.
Here and there, you need to open and close a barbed wire gate, as the Hacienda maintains a very scientific distribution of its bulls and horses.
Do not try to walk too fast or too long if you just arrived at this altitude. Take it easy. As a matter of fact, the Hacienda is favored by mountain climbers who acclimatize themselves there before "doing" Cotopaxi.
Written Sep 9, 2007
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Hacienda El Porvenir: Niche Accommodation, to Be Sure
calcaf38 Says: My wish was to spend one night near Cotopaxi, my first stop on the way down from Quito to Cuenca.I investigated several Haciendas on line, and El Porvenir looked so unique, I had to try it. I contacted them through the web site, and I was given instructions as to how to get...
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The Hacienda serves wonderful food, at large communal and convivial tables. It gets quite cold in the evening, so you might want to pick a table close to the fireplace. Breakfast is included in the price of the room, and the other meals are a flat $10.
Favorite Dish: The traditional potato soup with slices of cheese and avocado is very satisfying. I replicated at home as soon as I came back, but the fresh mozzarella I used - while pleasant - wasn't quite right.
Written Sep 9, 2007
Website: http://www.tierradelvolcan.com/
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On the right side of the main Bus Station in Quito, you will find the local buses that go to Machachi. The bus ride takes one hour, costs less than one dollar, and goes mostly through dusty suburbs of Quito before reaching Machachi.
In Machachi, as in any small Ecuadorian town, there are white pickup trucks lined up and waiting to be hailed (see the background of the photo). The first one I asked didn't know the Hacienda, but the second one did. He charged me $10 one way, which is what the Hacienda staff had told me to expect. I actually gave the driver $15 and asked him to come get me the following day at 9:00. The following morning, he and I were both punctual (and surprised that the other one was punctual too).
The road from Machachi to the Hacienda is downright awful, what French people would call une piste. It takes around 45 bone rattling minutes to reach the Hacienda.
Updated Sep 11, 2007
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In the Middle of Nowhere, up on the Páramo
Countless options are offered to travelers who wish to experience the "Avenue of the Volcanoes" south of Quito. I decided to spend the night at a Hacienda between the small town of Machachi and the...
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