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Cuenca is the world center for what is called, inaccurately, the "Panama Hat." A few remaining old-fashioned factories offer tours, where you will be told about the famous Montecristi straw; how the straw is boiled;how women weave it and sell the half-finished hats to the manufacturer; how hats are graded in quality, then pressed and whitened. It is all quite fascinating, in a fast-disappearing way. I imagine the visit is similar to that of a cigar factory in Cuba. I visited the Barranco workshop (Rafael Paredes e Hijos Cia Ltda). There was no pressure to buy a hat at the end, but you should tip your guide. There is a lovely view of the river from the top of the workshop. My visit was much more interesting from having read "The Panama Hat Trail" by Tom Miller beforehand. Leave a Comment Directions: Calle Larga, between Padre Aguirre and Torres
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 ugly? True but you'll need some time to explore by richiecdisc Museo Pumapungo is not only Cuenca’s main museum but it’s also one of Ecuador’s top ones as well. This natural history museum is extensive and you will need a few hours to properly have a look. Most people come solely to check out the huge ethnology exhibit that takes up an entire floor but there are lots of other interesting displays like dioramas of traditional costumes of Ecuador’s diverse cultural groups. Of course, the kids (and most adults too!) will love the shrunken heads that harrowingly finish up your tour. It’s three big bucks to get in and while expensive compared to what you pay for a room or food, it’s well money well spent. Leave a Comment Address: Calle Larga near HuaynaDirections: At the far southeast corner of town. It's a bit of a walk but an interesting one.
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Plaza San Blas is an afterthought for many Cuenca visitors but since we stumbled upon a great fruit salad/shake stand right on the square it became a personal favorite. The church itself was impressive mostly due to size but from afar it did beckon us to have a closer look. Some things are better from a distance and that is the case with this monstrous structure built in the form of a cross. That might be a good shot from a balloon! The plaza itself is quite pleasant and the view of it is best from the fruit stand, sipping on a freshly squeezed orange juice. Leave a Comment Directions: On the eastern edge of the Old Town.
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Parque Calderón’s focal point is Catedral de la Inmaculata Concepción is the newer of the square’s two but its two blue domes have become the city’s hallmark symbol. Ironically, they can barely be seen from the park as they were meant to play second and third fiddle to the proposed bell tower that was not built due to poor architectural planning and are thus at the rear of the structure! This cost the city it having the largest cathedral in South America. At any rate, the massive church whose austere marble interior took nearly 80 years to complete from its 1885 start date has beautiful stained glass windows and is particularly compelling during an evening service. Leave a Comment Directions: On the east side of the famous central square.
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 Real Shrunken Head by namastedc To see real shrunken heads, pay a visit to the Museo del Banco Central (Central Bank Museum). To get there, just walk to the river that passes through the city, and head to the left (assuming you are on the side of the river where the central square and the cathedral are located.) Most maps will have this museum on them. Also there are various print and sculpture arts, and a great archeological dig. Various animals are in cages, and Llamas or alpacas roam freely. Open Monday to Friday. 9:00am - 6:00pm, and Saturdays from 9:00am - 1:00pm Leave a Comment Address: Calle Larga and Huayna CapacPhone: 2831225
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 Parque Calderón, a nice place to relax by richiecdisc As with most Spanish influenced colonial cities, Cuenca is dominated by plazas or squares, the most impressive of which is Parque Calderón. This lovely park is not as meticulously landscaped as some and has a certain natural aura about it with some large pine trees sprouting wildly in the middle. Don’t get me wrong, this is no wild jungle and is a city park through and through but for a showpiece park it’s not as tame as most. What is nice about it compared to Cusco or to a lesser degree even Quito, no one bothers you if you sit down to soak up the scenery. No shoe shine boys in this park and personally I found that kind of relaxing like I was on vacation rather than guard. Leave a Comment Address: Bolivar & Benigno MaloDirections: This IS the center of the center. If you miss this, you have a very bad sense of direction.
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This is a comprehensive museum, organized on a manageable scale, and which covers all the local civilizations up to the Incas. Unless you are interested in archeology, it might appear a bit dry, but it will help you understand that the Incas didn't just appear out of the blue - only to be defeated by the conquistadores in less than 100 years. Many civilizations preceded the Incas, and combined or fragmented to form or oppose the Inca empire. The staff will lend you a booklet of explanations in your language. Leave a Comment Address: Calle Larga 5-24 Open 9 to 6 Mon. thru Sat.
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 at least the top wasn't under construction! by richiecdisc The Church of El Carmen de la Asunción was founded in 1652 and looks to be one of Cuenca’s more serene and beautiful sights under normal circumstances but while we were visiting there was some major construction going on which I hope does not permanently mar its obvious reserved natural aura. We missed its ornate interior and I was lucky to snap a picture of its pretty towers above the barricade that surrounded it. Leave a Comment Address: Mariscal Surcre, near Padre AquireDirections: Again, very close to the main square.
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Situated on Plaza San Sebastián, this museum has a great collection of contemporary Ecuadorian art. Some of the pieces are derivative, but not exploitatively so. Some others are just too funny, like the sculpture with the googly eyes. Cuenca is a tiring place to visit, with lots of walking, traffic, emotions, and the altitude. The Museo is a perfect spot to catch your breath. Leave a Comment
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The New Cathedral (de la Inmaculata Concepción), also on Parque Calderón, is a very intriguing edifice. Construction began in 1885, and an engineering error prevented the bell towers from reaching their intended height. The first impression is rather stark, until you notice the two gorgeous white and blue domes, which contrast with the dominant brick construction. The way the Cathedral is situated, you can see clearly the façade, or you can see the domes (from sideways). The whole structure constitutes an architectural tease, reminiscent of XVIII Century dresses which concealed almost everything, but showed off pushed-up women's breasts. Inside, the New Cathedral is imposing, and very active. Leave a Comment
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