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When Mass ended, all the bulls plowed around and around the hill, while the off-key band blared out the only tune they ever played, over and over (Terry confided to me they only know that one...' Leave a Comment
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"Many teams of bulls gathered around us, decked out with garlands of wildflowers and flags, about 25 teams in all. In a field below, two bulls were butting heads to establish supremacy. ' Leave a Comment
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"After the ceremony, we all marched behind San Ysidro following a very discordant Mariachi-style brass band, through the town and the farm fields, and up to a hill where a tarp had been erected to shade the saint. San Isidro was settled in under the tarp, and everyone assembled reverently for Mass. Leave a Comment
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"As an honored guest of Las Madres in a town where tourists never come, I was able to circulate freely and even take lots of pictures of the townspeople, so it was great fun. It's wonderful to be accepted completely for a change! A lot of the locals even mistakenly call me 'Madre' when addressing me, under the assumption any woman who visits the nuns must be one too, who else would bother to come to Manazo? Leave a Comment
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Today was the Fiesta De San Isidro, the patron saint of Manazo and special patron of shepherds and farmers. There was also a wedding, so the 2 fiestas were combined. The following night was to be a huge party for the town to celebrate the historical first day when electricity would be turned on, another project Barbara masterminded.
"The town church, Iglesia De Manazo, was built in 1572, and they are justifiably proud of it. It is simple and spare, of crumbling adobe, yet it is refreshingly beautiful to my eyes, so tired of seeing all the overly ornate and gilt churches I've seen so far." Leave a Comment
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"The wedding ceremony was a simple affair, and the groom just beamed with pride at the fine catch he was to wed. I was asked to take a picture of the couple receiving the sacrament, so I did. Leave a Comment
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"The Fiesta begins: San Isidro is perched on a platform, wearing his fiesta suit of brown corduroy and a cute fedora hat. He has a chuspa (small woven pouch for coca leaves) slung over his shoulder, in which people place coins as offerings, and a string of yuccas looped about his neck. One hands grips a sheaf of grain, while the other holds the reins to a pair of yoked bulls with a plow." Leave a Comment
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"The nuns here only number 4 at present: Anna, Terry & Barbara are resident faculty, while Paula
Gonzales is visiting for a couple of months from the US, doing odds and ends to help as she can. All 4 are fascinating women, very rugged individualists, yet so kind and generous.
"Barbara has been in Peru for 12 years, and originally worked in Lima with Cantonese refugees, teaching Spanish as a second language. She's the core of the group. She's just written a teaching manual for their native teachers, and is currently masterminding an irrigation project for the town.
"Ann & Terry are fulltime teachers, and they travel all around to outlying towns on the altiplano in their trusty Jeep truck. Terry also functions as a resident mechanic and handywoman. Paula is a biologist, with a special interst in the Third World. She lectures all around the US on the concept of 'futuring' and on global trends." Leave a Comment
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'3 hours to go 28 miles, yet another crammed full crazy bus ride, but I was ready for it this time. As I got off the bus at Manazo, a bunch of little ninos in their school uniforms ran around me, ducking and giggling behind bushes every time I looked diretly at them, calling 'Gringa grande! Gringa grande!' Then Madre Anna came running outto give me a big hug, and the adventure began." Leave a Comment
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"True to form, though this is not a tourist stop, a little boy immediately started beggin us for a 'propina' (tip) when we hopped out of the back of the pickup in which we'd been riding. I told him no, 'propina es por servicio' - so Callum asked him how we could get a ride in one of the reed boats. The little boy hemmed and hawed, but his older brother thankfully came out to talk with us, so we got down to serious negotiations.
"Finally, for 650/s todo, we both went for a 45 minute sunset ride in a reed boat, while the cool dark waters of Lake Titicaca reflected brilliant oranges and reds from the fiery sky. All we lacked was a tenor!" Leave a Comment
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on December 16, 2003
