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 The Sisters of Santiago Apostol by catalysta "The nuns here only number 4 at present: Anna, Terry & Barbara are resident faculty, while Paula Gonzales is visiting for a couple of months from the US, doing odds and ends to help as she can. All 4 are fascinating women, very rugged individualists, yet so kind and generous. "Barbara has been in Peru for 12 years, and originally worked in Lima with Cantonese refugees, teaching Spanish as a second language. She's the core of the group. She's just written a teaching manual for their native teachers, and is currently masterminding an irrigation project for the town. "Ann & Terry are fulltime teachers, and they travel all around to outlying towns on the altiplano in their trusty Jeep truck. Terry also functions as a resident mechanic and handywoman. Paula is a biologist, with a special interst in the Third World. She lectures all around the US on the concept of 'futuring' and on global trends." Leave a Comment
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 The Main Street Of Manazo by catalysta '3 hours to go 28 miles, yet another crammed full crazy bus ride, but I was ready for it this time. As I got off the bus at Manazo, a bunch of little ninos in their school uniforms ran around me, ducking and giggling behind bushes every time I looked diretly at them, calling 'Gringa grande! Gringa grande!' Then Madre Anna came running outto give me a big hug, and the adventure began." Leave a Comment
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 Fisherman Poling His Barquo by catalysta "True to form, though this is not a tourist stop, a little boy immediately started beggin us for a 'propina' (tip) when we hopped out of the back of the pickup in which we'd been riding. I told him no, 'propina es por servicio' - so Callum asked him how we could get a ride in one of the reed boats. The little boy hemmed and hawed, but his older brother thankfully came out to talk with us, so we got down to serious negotiations. "Finally, for 650/s todo, we both went for a 45 minute sunset ride in a reed boat, while the cool dark waters of Lake Titicaca reflected brilliant oranges and reds from the fiery sky. All we lacked was a tenor!" Leave a Comment
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 Barquo On Lake Titicaca (postcard) by catalysta "Etsuko & I parted ways, she heading in down into Bolivia, and I back to Puno, then off to Manazo to visit the madres. Fell in with a Brit today, Callum, and after a day of kicking around together, we decided to hitchhike out to Ichu, a small fishing village he'd spotted from a bus, for a ride on a reed boat. What a lark! "There were only about 40 dwellings in the village; everywhere were spread the totora reeds, drying in the sun in tidy rows on the ground, and stacked in bales. Men and women both worked at tying them into long rolls of mats, and into the reed 'barquos' the fishermen mostly use to navigate the shallow waters around the edges of Titicaca. (Half expected to see 'Thor Heyrdahl was here!' scrawled on a stucco wall.)' Leave a Comment
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 Lago De Titicaca by catalysta "Lake Titcaca is like an ocean. Waves lap on the shore, and the far side is well beyond sight. The sun is gleaming; Los Dolores stand in single file on a hilltop, seven sisters over Copacabana, with a single cross for a companion." Leave a Comment
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 Los Dolores by catalysta "At last, exhausted, she leaned against the shrine sobbing. Then she simply got up and walked away, with another smile and nod in my direction. It was bizarre to be sitting next to such an outpouring of raw emotion and faith. I felt frozen in place, pad and pencils in lap, wondering if I should leave her some privacy, though she certainly didn't indicate any discomfort at my presence." Leave a Comment
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 The Supplicant by catalysta As I sat on top of the mountain sketching Los Dolores, a peasant woman padded up on her bare feet to the Dark Virgin, all dressed in black and wrapped in a black shawl. First she greeted me very pleasantly, with a friendly smile, and then proceeded to crawl around the shrine on her knees, moaning and wailing and praying, wringing her rosary in gnarled hands." "She spoke a mixture of Aymara and Castellano, but I could distinguish just enough words to tell that she was praying to both the 'Padre' and the 'Inca' - could she have meant Manco Capac? This mount overlooks Isla Del Sol.....???" Leave a Comment
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 Los Dolores by catalysta "Leading up to the Dark Virgin herself are 7 smaller shrines, each with a picture commemorating the death of a martyred saint, and dedicated to the various citizens I presume donated money for the shrines to be built." "They are called 'Los Dolores', the Sorrowful Ones.'" Leave a Comment
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 Copacabana Christus by catalysta "Inside the Catedral is very elaborate, similar to many others, with of course the requisite morbidly realistic Christ of which these guys are so fond." Leave a Comment
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 Catedral De Copacabana by catalysta "Etsuko wound up sick as a dog for a couple of days from our awful bus trip, once we finally reached Copacabana, so I stuck close by the town in my explorations. Too bad - I think she would've enjoyed this town. It's beautiful, with a famous Catedral that shows a Moorish influence, withdomes and tilework like I've never seen before. Leave a Comment
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