Every Resto gasy, Malagasy restaurant: Local pick-me-up: chicken bouillon with ginger
It is not about a specific restaurant. It 's about a specific dish, ron'akoho... After long journeys, days of hard work, disease, try the local pick-me-up dish: Chicken bouillon (stock) with ginger.
I see you grimacing, thinking of fat chicken meat you have in Europe... No, no, forget about that! .. Meat in general has a great taste as it is not as fat as European meat. In Madagascar, livestock, cattle, fowls live in open air and use to eat grass, corn, "organic" food. This chicken bouillon is a real delight! Although, the trend in intensive farming is big.
In Madagascar, Tana area esp., renowned restaurants don't serve it anymore. It's a pity! You have to go "Resto gasy" to taste it, or have it served by locals at their places. Resto gasy are restaurants of, often, low category. Clean but not exceptional that would serve everyday dishes. The one I know is Fanantenana, on Route circulaire (in Ampandrana area). I know it for being located near my grand-ma place and where I once ate with the school charity team... They are good in Malagasy cuisine.
I warn you about "hotely gasy" and "gargottes" and other streetvendors though. Use common sense. When it's dirty, sticky, no protection, it's no good for you! More than to anyone else, by the way... Don't imitate locals buying kebabs in urban streets.
I would give the recipe later!! or ask me if you want to try it home (you can, you can). You can find all ingredients in usual supermarkets.
Favorite Dish: Great flavour, nice smell though it is a kind of light dish... I do not believe in ginger to be an aphrodisiac but one thing I know is that ginger helps a lot here in perking somebody up :-)
Yep, after long trips, this is your best bet.
It used to be common to have ron'akoho with its blood cooked rice (see picture). One uses to collect the blood of the slaughted chicken in a plate to mix it with rice grains. Then, warm the mix to have the blood coagulating then place the whole paste in the stock being cooked. Yummy!Related to:
- Food and Dining
- Business Travel
Mirador Restaurant at Ft. Dauphin: Restaurant on the Indian Ocean
In Ft. Dauphin we walked along the coast of the Indian Ocean up to the Mirador Restaurant. They have a nice lounge where you can sit before dinner and have hot coffee or tea which was welcome because it was very cold here in Sept. It was dark by 6pm. Dinner wasn't until 7:30pm. Our first course was eggplant mixed with meat and fried, served with lettuce and tomato. The main course was steamed prawns with steamed vegetables in a sauce. Today was one of the tour group's birthday so our guide had them make a cake and bring it out complete with Happy Birthday on it. Then shared the cake with the rest of the people in the restaurant including the staff. Then we had our coffee. And walked back to the hotel in the dark. I do not know the prices because it was included in the cost of the tour.Related to:
Korean BBQ: Exellent korean BBQ
Exellent restaurant and not to expensive. Korean style restaurant with BBQ's in the middle of the tables. You can order a viarity of dishes, mostly korean, chinese and japanese. Also sushi.
I reckon this is the best restaurant in Tana!
Favorite Dish: Tie pan is really really good. It is a very hot iron plate with stir fried veggies. you can choose to have it with beef, chicken, porc, seafruit or even frog. Served with rice or noodles.
Obviously the BBQ is very good to. You can order a viarity of meats, fish etc. to grill your self....
There is also a Sake which has snakes and Zebu dicks inside......jummyAdd to your Trip Planner
Sakamanga: exellent Zebu steaks with green pepper saus
Sakamanga is a really good french quisine restaurant with a good atmosphere. It is quite expensive for Malagasy standards though. A main course costs about 3 euros. Another downside is that there are basically only Vazahas in the restaurant. Only white people.
Favorite Dish: I absolutely love the goat cheese salade.
The Zebu steak and the duck breast with the green pepper saus are exellent too.Related to:
- Food and Dining
Chez Papillon, Fianarantsoa: Excellent French cuisine at Chez Papillon
Setting is a bit old- fashioned but food has maintained its reputation for decades. Chez Papillon is reported to be, alongside with Colbert, the best place for French cuisine in Madagascar. They can be of different style though. Colbert would tend to the Nouvelle Cuisine type whilst Papillon would be a terroir cuisine. Dozen ways to cook crayfish, who culd beat that ?
My memory of this place was a cozy place, rather old-fashioned.. but very accessable. Not the formal and a bit cold ambience of Colbert, it was like enetering a montain chalet somewhere in France.
I was there after some hours on the road so was glad to see an open fire heating a room, that, by the way, didn't need heating since it was packed with clients, noisy. Not that it was the aggressive of cars and traffic. No !, it's the noise of happy people, laughing, having fun while waiting for the meal to be served.. having a good time.
The food ? zébus steak, crayfish (I have allergy but I know theirs are yummy), fish, brochette de boeuf.. many French dishes.
It seems that hotel rooms are nice as well (Hotel Moderne). Price was comparatively low though..
Favorite Dish: Try crayfish!
I appreciated there grilled z?bu steak and grilled tuna steak as well.
I cannot remember about the price but I know it is less expensive than in other restaurants with same quality food.Related to:
- Road Trip
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- Food and Dining
Hotel Capricorne (Toliara): Delicious breakfast at Hotel Capricorne
Nice, comfortable and clean bungalows, discreet and efficient personnel in a superb complex. Gardens full of flower. Patios lead to bungalows and pavillions. Many hidden corners to take pictures... Bending coconut trees.
I discovered it at night. Ambience was mysterious as night was warm and I was tempted to stay in the garden, under patios, listening to peoples' conversations, to music from its club.
Great food as well. I appreciated my breakfast: fresh juice, papaya and pineapple slices, toasted bread and Sahambavy tea... A kind of British tea as the company that produces it is reported to be Tate & Lyle..
Favorite Dish: I fell for fresh papaya and pineapple slices at breakfast...
I fell for the terrace or patio where we took our breakfast...Related to:
- Road Trip
- Business Travel
- Romantic Travel and Honeymoons
Mariette Andrianjaka Bleu Cuisine: A Madagascar Food Story PART 2
When Madame embarked on her quest, Madagascar was at the tail end of 60 years of French Colonial rule. French cooking had practically wiped out the traditional Malagasy table. 'We knew about our cuisine', she recalls, 'but no-one was serving it. So you see, I was the first'. And much as a shuffle of restaurants have subsequently followed suit, none has achieved quite the same level of intimacy, detail or sophistication.
Here, the lines between food, culinary science and visual art blur with the likes of Zebu beef steaks, picked into painfully fine strands, then deep-fried in their own grease. The fresh carp has been rolled into brochettes and prepared with its own neon orange caviar. Even the zanadandy, or silkworm pupae, are beyond reproach. 'You should try one', Madame quips mischievously. 'They're an aphrodisiac'.
We eat and eat and eat. A goose arrives - it has been cooked overnight - served with black pudding. Then a romazava, the clear soup most Malagasy subsist on. Madame's romazava however, is her own creation: a mix of fresh fish, prawns and languostines, delicately flavoured with a rare algae, found only off the Malagasy coast. Then a chicken stew, spiced with ginger and bitter vegetables. The fact that I'm running late for a key appointment with the editor of one of the country's dailies, pales quickly under the warm thunder of Madame's hospitality. 'Pah', she snorts. 'I know the man. He'll understand. He's an artist'.
To be sure, she dials his number on her mobile phone, and promptly explains where cuisine fits into the country's priorities. 'It is the vector of tourism', she concludes, turning to me.
'I should come to South Africa some time', she continues. 'I should come and find your best local ingredients and prepare a meal of the highest, French culinary standards. Ah, yes', she commands, distracted by the sight of the waiter, 'the koba ...'.
Favorite Dish: I've already tried koba on the streets here. And I'm not quite sold on this Cinderella of a cake the hawkers slice so finely and spear onto a scrap of newspaper for busy commuters. But Madame's koba has come to the ball. It is a song of wild honey and minced pistachios, served with a sweet, orange papaya coulis.
Somehow the papaya tastes sweeter here than it would somewhere else. It could be softness of the light or the warm, naive smiles of the Malagasy. More likely, it's simply the thrill of this oddest of feasts, served here in this oddest of places, that tingles so in my throat.
Coffee time, and Madame is happily oblivious to any sense of urgency. One glass of French red and she trades her pompous professionalism for a string of warm anecdotes and deliciously dry asides. My watch ticks as a box of photographs transpires. This cooking demonstration in Canada. The time she cooked for Mitterand. Then, 'Oh, I should never have sent my children to study in Europe. Une grande erreur! They've all become hypochondriacs, you understand. When they come here for their holidays, it's one little scratch and they're moaning for medicines'.
Through the sarcasm, there is warmth, and through it all, there is passion. Even in the slickest of Western establishments, this perfectionism would reach rare standards; here in this bizarre, dilapated paradise, it is all the more poignant. The richest of culinary traditions in the poorest of African states. Haute uptightness, here, on the most laid-back of islands.
In a final plea to take my leave, I tell Madame I'm journeying to the East Coast this evening, to the pretty, pirate island of Sainte Marie. Any recommendations? Madame shrugs. Tosses her small, dark pupils up under her eyelids in despair, then reluctantly, lets me in on a certain noteworthy dish. 'The resort is called Le Crique, she winks, 'and actually, I hear they do a chicken in coconut milk which is not all bad'.Add to your Trip Planner
Mariette Andrianjaka, a food story.: A Madagascar Food Story PART 1
Mariette Andrianjaka has invented Malagasy Cordon Bleu Cuisine.
Somewhere amid the ripe, exotic mysteries of Madagascar, Madame Mariette Andrianjaka has honed an unique culinary extravaganza.
Adam Levin did lunch.
High on a hilltop in Madagascar's mad, marvellous capital, Antananarivo, the mad, marvellous Madame Mariette Andrianjaka is cooking up a perfect storm. Her kitchen is ripe with ingredients: strange mafana blossoms that tingle in your mouth like electricity; silkworm pupae sauteeing in chicken stock; fresh algae; and a vast Royal Carp. Chef's hat cocked slightly atilt, Madame ensures her eucalyptus-wood fires are keeping the food at perfect 80 degrees - a hotter stove would amount to no less than a profanity.
'I'd never use gas', she exclaims, visibly horrified. 'How could I? This is food. Nourishment'
Ten years ago, this imposing villa belonged to the country's prime minister. Today, it is one of Madagascar's best kept secrets: an unique and exclusive table d'hote, run by one of the city's most cultured couples, Ludger and Mariette Andrianjaka.
Ludger, with his bushy, greying beard, stuffy cravat and grey sports shoes, is the country's only baritone singer. For years, he ran restaurants in the port city of Tamatave. 'The first one burnt down when the Malagasy soccer team lost to Zambia', he laments with a shrug of cheery resignation. When political riots saw a second restaurant up in flames, Ludger and Mariette stopped tempting fate and moved to Tana.
Decades ago, Mariette had honed her craft in Nice, under France's most distinguished chefs. On her dining room wall, a smorgasbord of certificates backs up her credentials: La Societe des Chefs de Quebec; Commanderie des Cordons Bleus de France; L'Ordre de la Gastronomie Francaise; and somewhere among them all, Commandeur de la Chaine des Rotisseurs. 'The only female Commandeur in the Indian Ocean', she remarks, raising a slim eyebrow. 'Probably in Africa'.
Favorite Dish: Tonight, as usual, Madame has whipped up Madagascar's answer to Babette's feast. Step outside the front door, and you could be in Provence or New Orleans - what with Madame's pet lemur scampering about the orchid garden and that dense thicket of cobwebs safeguarding the villa against mosquitoes and the ravages of vulgarity. Inside, the ambience is one of grand and wilted nostalgia. A stiff man in a stiff, white uniform pours me a Chivas. I can see my reflection on the polished parquet floor, and I could most probably hear a shrimp drop - indeed, if it weren't for an obstinate scrap of beige, brocade wallpaper, peeling away in the tropic heat, this could well be Paris.
Of course, that this is Antananarivo makes for intriguing contrasts. West of here, the city folds out into eight, steep hills, most of them crawling with aging Citroens, running out of petrol. Tall, narrow villas cling to the hillsides, betraying a small, but persistent sliver of local aristocracy. Below, there are rice paddies and a vast gutter of a market, which brims with a fresher and broader variety of produce than you'd find in most African cities. So despite a grim curtain of poverty, the rich strangeness of Madagascar's natural resources shines through.
There are stacks of little, red goat peppers, bundles of vanilla, and towers of ready grated carrots in rusty, enamel bowls. Then raffia hearts, baskets of green peppercorns or pale pink, unpolished rice. There are lots of things without English names. Madame, of course, will have none but the very best of these. 'The very freshest', she drills. 'If a dish isn't perfect, I won't serve it. How could I? I'd rather waste money than waste the honour of serving a fine meal'.
Tonight's fine meal is an exquisite, silver-domed hotch-potch of 15 exotic dishes, each the fruit of years of careful research.
(read further in next tip)Add to your Trip Planner
1) Le Zebu Philosophe in Antsirabe
1) Le Zebu Philosophe in Antsirabe
2) Le 'Drugstore' in Morondava
Le Zebu Philosophe: Small restaurant with the best zebusteak I have ever tasted. Even my (normally) vegetarian friend agrees! But most of all, their house-style is amazing.
Le drugstore' Small and simple. Not much choice in menu, but very good quality. Nice personel, friendly atmosphere, great garlic shrimps, fish and yoghurt. We felt 100% at home there.Add to your Trip Planner
Le Grill du Rova (near the...
Le Grill du Rova (near the former Rova). Excellent view from the terrace. The food is quite nice too and on fridays there is live music. But the time that I have attended this was no big success (not bad, but pianist played only European/American songs...boring).Add to your Trip Planner
any: rice pies
Locals tend to eat mountains of rice. W e arrange our tour through a local travel agent in madagascar and they wouldn't let us it in the local resterants too cheap.
But with every meal you get a mountain of rice
Favorite Dish: my favourite restarant was the place were we stayed in Ifaty. Ifaty is right on the beach, there was the best french chef ever with deliciousdesertsAdd to your Trip Planner
La Brasserie, Hôtel de France: La Brasserie, Hôtel de France
Very European. Most main courses 27.000 MDG (4.35 USD).
Bill for 6 people (incl. 10% service): 394.000 MDG (63.56 USD) - main course, soft drinks, coffee and dessert
Favorite Dish: Filet de mérou grillé (a fish), côtes d'agneau grillées, Ile flottante, tarte au citron meringuée etc.Add to your Trip Planner
Le Bateau Ivre: Le Bateau Ivre
Upmarket restaurant run by an English woman Helen Hodgson who has worked and lived in Madagascar for 8 years and had a restaurant/hotel before in Mauritius.
Favorite Dish: Everything looked good and tasted good too. But they specialise in seafood.Add to your Trip Planner
La Douce Sirene restaurant,...
La Douce Sirene restaurant, tulear Madagascar
the garden is very nice (with plants you can see only in the south of Madagascar), very calm
Amazing : the only restaurant with an air conditioning in the center of tulear ! Some food presented in japanese plate....in tulear !
Favorite Dish: excellent food, various (malagasy, french, portugues,chinese , italian), very clean. I think it's the best restaurant in tulear ! Try it !Add to your Trip Planner
Foodis pretty basic, you'll be...
Foodis pretty basic, you'll be eating a lot of rice,omlets and the occasional Zebu steak.
Zebu is similar to beef, but a bit tougher.
by the coast there is excelent sea food.
banana's are a typical good desertAdd to your Trip Planner
On the West Coast of Madagascar, right at the beach, you can find the hotel "Chez Maggie". It is...more
For the price, Sakamanga is the best hotel in Antananarivo. It has a lovely shaded courtyard and all...more
300 meter southwest from the Cathedral
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