***!! hehe, this is soooo of the beaten track. Mind you, it is not meant for tourists to come around but it is the closest Cuban village to the cayos. You cannot purchase anything here, sightsee or go out to dine...BUT you will get a real look at the Cuban people and way of life if you take the time to go around.
Best way to get here would be if you rent a jeep and drive around yourself. The hotels offer short half day tours but you have to follow the group and it kind of sucks!
As part of our 4WD day tour, we also booked a 'horseback' trip through some mountainous terrain. Although the horses were a bit on the skinny side, they seemed to manage OK and a few spares were brought along as well. The trip over the hills and down into a riverside picnic and swimming area was interesting.
Watch out at night for unexpected friends roaming the hotel grounds, the black bull and herds come outside the rooms, and the frogs loads of them in the grass's.