La Bodeguita del Medio, Havana

2.5 out of 5 stars 10 Reviews

Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana 62-4498
  • La Bodeguita del Medio
    by elsadran
  • La Bodeguita del Medio
    by elsadran
  • La Bodeguita del Medio
    by elsadran

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  • Bunsch's Profile Photo

    La Bodeguita del Media: Recreate your fraternity experience

    by Bunsch Written Dec 21, 2015

    If you're looking for a place with live music and what looks like half the tourists in Havana trying to crowd into the open downstairs bar (and the rest dancing in the street outside) so they can try what are supposed to be the premiere mojitos in the City, look no further! Yes, it is said that Papa Hemingway did some of his drinking here -- you can see a big brass tribute to him over the bar -- but it seemed to me like many places in Havana had that distinction. More interesting was the graffiti, which covers every surface in the ground floor and up the stairway to the more spacious second-floor restaurant. Our group was seated in a small room with windows wide open to the balcony, allowing us plenty of both air and sound from the band. People seemed generally pleased with both the drinks and the meal. There is a tiny gift shop which is worth pausing for on the way out -- much better quality souvenirs were available here than elsewhere in our travels.

    Favorite Dish: Please check out others' description of the food. I had been very ill for the two preceding days, so I limited my consumption to a plate of white rice -- which was wonderful, but probably isn't what you're going to Havana to experience!

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Directions: Old Havana

    Phone: +53 7 571375

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  • elsadran's Profile Photo

    Bodeguita del Medio

    by elsadran Updated Jul 8, 2015

    The famous Bodeguita del Medio or B del M as it is usually called, is still keeping its tradition and its style. The walls are covered up with signatures of well-known or just common people. The musicians are still playing the same rhythms. I remember it from the first trip to Cuba , many years ago. I tried to find my signature but it had probably been erased. Having a drink in B del M is a good idea, although it is expensive. In my first trip we had dinner with my friends and we were very satisfied with our meals but now I have heard it has deteriorated so it's up to you to decide. Their cuisine is Creole.
    It was founded in 1942 and it is said that it was first signed by Ernest Hemingway.
    There are more Bodeguitas del Medio, one in Trinidad , another one in Varadero and several more in other countries. All are similar, carrying the long history of thousands of hands who have signed on their walls. (unless they have been painted over...)

    This is the recipe of their legendary mojito which Hemingway used to like so much!
    -- 1/2 small spoonful of sugar
    --- 1/2 ounce of lime juice
    --- put in some leaves of spearmint, "hierba buena", and stir carefully without destroying the leaves
    -- -3 ounces of soda water
    ---2-3 ice cubes
    --- 1 ounce of ...3year old Havana Ron (of course if you have no Cuban Rum you can use any rum or votka. In Brazil they use cacha├ža)

    Address: La B del M / La Bodeguita del Medio
    In Havana : Empedrado 207
    e/ Cuba y san Ignacio
    tel (537) 272 2223 / ( 537) 272 2319 / (537) 272 5994

    See also: B del M - Trinidad and B del M - Varadero

    Related to:
    • Food and Dining

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  • La Bodeguita del Medio: Not worth bothering with

    by socheid Written Mar 15, 2012

    2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    There's a bar at the front that holds around a dozen people from which it is packed. The restaurant through the back is bigger. Unless though you are a real Hemmingway zealot, this is an unremarkable place. The other Hemmingway place is the Floridita a few mins walk away and while nothing mega to get excited about, is the better of the 2 to have a drink in as the bar isn't so small.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

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  • draguza's Profile Photo

    La Bodeguita del Medio: La Bodeguita del Medio

    by draguza Written May 3, 2011

    2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    The "B del M," as it's also known, oozes history and suffers from overcrowding. Still, it's still a must for any first-time trip to Havana. The collage of famous photos and signatures that crowd the walls here are legend. You'll definitely want a reservation (in high season), although even with a reservation, you'll probably end up waiting for a table -- this place is just that popular. Tradition would have you start things off with a mojito, although the mojitos here are notoriously weak and unjustifiably expensive. The food -- simple and well-prepared Cuban dishes -- is pretty good. This place is crowded and rowdy, so don't come expecting anything less. There's live music in the squashed bar.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Inside the restaurant

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  • LoriPori's Profile Photo

    La Bodeguita del Medio: MOJITOS AND HEMINGWAY

    by LoriPori Updated Apr 4, 2011

    4.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    American writer Ernest Hemingway (1899 - 1961) would have his usual Mojito and chat with the locals at his favourite haunt LA BODEGUITA DEL MEDIO. It's a quaint little bar/restaurant located near the Plaza de la Catedral. Our guide made a point of bringing us there as it's apparently a must-see. The little walkway there was overcrowded with tourists and the bar was simply packed with people. Looking inside, you could see hundreds of writings on the wall, as folks are allowed and encouraged to write your name, that is if you can find the space to do so. The restaurant served traditional Cuban dishes and the atmosphere was definitely Bohemian. Mojitos were advertised at 6 Pesos ($7.00 US) which is steep for Cuba.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Directions: A short walk from the Plaza de la Catedral

    Phone: 53 7 618 442

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  • Neuras's Profile Photo

    La bodeguita del medio: Not the greatest

    by Neuras Written Nov 21, 2009

    2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    Do not get fooled by this little typical tourist-trap restaurant. Or maybe it is just the ratio cost-benefit too low. We paid about 40 dollars for pork with beans and rice and a beer for both of us which I thought too expensive. You definitely want to go to the small bars with live music around Havana where you can delight yourself with local food and the great music they play there. That type of restaurants might not be as fancy but the food and the ambience is what you expect of Havana

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

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  • MrRandMcnally's Profile Photo

    Bodeguita Del Medio: Not a Real Hemmingway spot

    by MrRandMcnally Written Jan 27, 2009

    2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    It has been pretty convincingly proved that the Hemmingway endorsement of the place is a forgery. Hemmingway is known to have gone there just once, when some investors forced him to go.

    The Mojitos are overrated, the food isn't very good. A tourist trap if you ask me.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

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  • xaver's Profile Photo

    Bodeguita del Medio: Mojito

    by xaver Written May 27, 2008

    3.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    To be honest i did not want to come here.I thought that a quick picture could be enough as it's popular because Hemingway used to drink mojito here but I could get cheaper mojito everywhere else in Havana.
    I had to change my mind after a night of stomach pains dued to a mojito probably made with oil instead of rom in an unonimous bar on Vedado.
    I did not want to leave Cuba before tasting a decent mojito and I did not want to risk again, so I came regardless of the taxi driver that tried to persuade me that 4 cuc for a mojito was a "robo total".

    Favorite Dish: The mojito was good and the bar was good but still the driver was right, its price is a robo total!

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Bodeguita del medio Mojito

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  • tim07's Profile Photo

    La Bodeguita del Medio: Hemingway used to drink here

    by tim07 Updated May 5, 2008

    2.5 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    Opened in 1942 the restaurant & bar attracts many visitors due to the fact that Ernest Hemingway used to drink here. I had a drink in the small bar area, the walls are covered in pictures & writing from the rich & famous who have visited it. The bar area was quite crowded with tourists & a band playing, a local Cuban beer cost 3 CUC. There are other small rooms there to have a meal, I didn't bother due to the prices & the fact they were pretty crowded too.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Directions: A street just off the Plaza de la Catedral

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  • Joseph69's Profile Photo

    La Bodeguita del Medio: Why not scribble on the wall... any wall!!!!!

    by Joseph69 Written Jan 12, 2007

    3 out of 5 starsHelpfulness

    Well, if you expect extravegant food in Cuba, you have come to the wrong country. I did not find Cuban cuisine anything to write home about, but when you're hungry, you eat! There are numerous spanish-style restaurants, which I found a lot better.

    Anyway, La Bodeguita del Medio has a major significance in Old Havana because it is visited by many famous people. Ernest Hemingway loved it there, and also as recent as Maradona (the Argentinian footballer), who had visited there also.

    One very unique aspect about the restaurant was that you could write on any wall inside. The walls are covered with writing, etc. I even got into the swing of things and wrote a little something too. I drew a Kangaroo albeit not a very good one! LOL. Anyway, we had a lot of fun in there, and I do strongly suggest you take a visit and have a meal.

    Favorite Dish: We had a mixture of rice/beans, pork, fries, bread and a really simple salad. It all tasted good.

    Address: Calle Empedrado No. 206. Ciudad de La Habana

    Me writing on the wall! I felt like a child! Haha. La Bodeguita del Medio Hmm, so far, so-so. Hmm..... not great, but hey, I tried!

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