Food is art at this beautiful, unpretentious restaurant behind the facade of an unremarkable building a few blocks from the city center. Homemade pasta in countless shapes and a rainbow of colors dries behind glass near the restaurant entrance. The kitchen, too, is visible behind glass, so diners can watch the chef work his magic. Even the extensive wine cellar is artfully displayed in a corner of the house. The menu is mostly fish with several interesting recipes such as tuna with polenta and red-wine sauce, or beef soup with ravioli. There is a stylish white stone terrace, a cozy casual dining room, and more formal space where crystal and silver set the tone. The waitstaff is congenial and knowledgeable about both the food preparations and complementary wines.