TAKE SUN GLASSES, even if you're going in winter, sun is prety often. This winter (2001) was really cold, dress up warmly. Another thing - smoking is very into fashion, especially among girls/women, as I don't smoke for me it was quite terrible. typical portrayt of italian woman in winter italian style - puffy black jacket, long sleeves of sweater going out of it, big scarf cuddled almost till nose, sun glasses even if it's dark :), jeans usually. Women smoke like chains, much more than men. women smoke while walking, driving, cooking, talking, cigarettes almost don't go out of their teeth. On THURSDAY almost everything is closed.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Summer 2003. I find funny reading what I've written about smoking in 2001, because I do smoke now. And "warning" of 2003 about cigarettes would be.. if you love Marlboro alla menta (Marlboro, mint) , you won't find it in Italy. In france yes. Italy no. Marlboro normal ones - as many as you like. mint - no. as all the other kind of mints (Davidoff, ecc) I do not like, after finishing my M. mint in summer (Italy) it was a salvation when a friend went for a holiday to Prague, and guess what did he bring me. :)
The only thing that can be dangerous here is ... to do too much shopping in the city centre, because you can find a lot of nice dresses of D&G, Versace and so on. I suggest you to visit the market on wednesday and on saturday morning near the stadium. You can find some cheap t-shirts, dresses and shoes.