The oldest residential neighbourhood in Buenos Aires, San Telmo exudes a special historical vibe As one of the most important centres during the 19th century, San Telmo has preserved many of Buenos Aires’ architectural landmarks, museums, antique shops and old churches that nowadays serve as a backdrop for business, cultural events and day to day activities
San Telmo is a great place to wander around on a Sunday afternoon. Enjoy the artisan's market, do some sightseeing and have lunch or coffee at one of the stunning cafes notables. Without a doubt highly ranked on the Buenos Aires top ten, San Telmo is one of the best places in Buenos Aires to really get an insight into Argentine culture
Throughout the weekend, the central square fills with the stunning San Telmo crafts and antiques market. On Sunday afternoon, the plaza transforms into an open air milonga, where experts and amateurs couple up to dance tango on the cobbled square
San Temo is the oldest area of the city, an area where which was above all home of dockworkers and brickmakers, it can easily be considered the first industrial area of the city. For years it was separated from the city by a ravine, it has been officially incorporated only in 1708.
It was described to me like the most characteristic part of the town, but I must admit I didn’t enjoy at all. I went in a normal day, not on week end so there were no musicians on the roads, no tango dancers, nor any market, it appeared pretty desolated.
San Telmo is one of the most popular destinations in Buenos Aires for both tourists and locals alike. Even though it is quite a long walk from the nearest Subte station, you don’t notice the distance as you are surrounded by some of the oldest and most beautiful buildings the city has to offer, including the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Holy Trinity at Calle Brasil 315, a rather incongruous Muscovite building with beautiful blue domes.
This is one of the main bohemian and artistic areas of Buenos Aires. A visit to Plaza Dorrego in the heart of the neighborhood offers a perfect snapshot of the city as a whole. Surrounded by open-air cafes, antique shops, market stalls offering local produce or bizarre curiosities, and of course a plethora of tango dancers, Plaza Dorrego is a sinless delight.
Sunday is one of the best days to visit San Telmo as it offers a double pleasure. Walking down the cobblestone street of Calle Defensa on a Sunday you can take in the architectural glory of the tenement buildings and also browse casually through the vast street market, which seems to stretch on indefinitely into the horizon.
Gringo Standup is a comedy show in English. I was surprised how funny it was. I guess I didn't know what to expect. The comics were hilarious, especially Ana Carolina. It's a professional show, just like you'd find in the US. We laughed our butts off.
I just got an update that they're changing their venue to San Telmo. Anyway, it's something different to do, and I'm going to go again and bring some friends. It happens every Tuesday night at 9.
San Telmo was everything I hoped it would be, colorful, vibrant, and literally teeming with Argentine culture. The cobblestone streets were lined with cafes and vendors selling colorful paintings and other knick knacks. Everywhere I looked there was something with Argentine flavor, tango dancing, paintings of Maradona, and of course the aroma of delicious food! Speaking of food there are numerous places to eat and be prepared to be invited to eat at every one of them. The cafe owners are very agressive about trying to get your business, but the food is great and of course each place has a small stage for tango performances!
I stayed in this bario whilst I was in Buenos Aires (on my January 2010 & 2011 trips). San Telmo has an antiguo and bohemian feel to it with its traditional architecture and this is where you can enjoy people watching at the many bars, cafes and restaurants in the area. You can watch the free tango and milonga at the Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo's main square. San Telmo is famous for the Feria de San Telmo, an antiques market, that is held on Sundays.
San Telmo is the oldest district in Buenos Aires and is perhaps also the most atmospheric. Buenos Aires was founded by Pedro de Mendoza in the 16th century and his statue in Parque Lezama in San Telmo marks the spot where the city began. Nowadays this park marks the divide between Boca and is a good spot to visit on a summer's day.
There is wonderful nightlife in San Telmo, and with some of the city's best bars and restaurants, especially parrillas serving delicious Argentinian food, it´s a busy place every night of the week. The biggest crowds are here on Sundays for the famous markets on Plaza Dorrego and the surrounding streets. This is well worth visiting if you´re in the city as you´ll see free tango and many stalls with items well worth buying. Even if you´re not here on a Sunday San Telmo is a great district to visit. It's always lively and there's a much more down to earth feel than in neighbourhoods such as Recoleta or Palermo.
This is the old neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, with many colonial buildings to see and a lot of narrow small coblestone streets to walk!
I was really lucky visit the area during easter because it was car free (something very rare in BsAs) so I had a different view of the area. I noticed a lot of good cafes, restaurants, old churches, many antique shops and a dozen of street artists in every corner.
The best moment to visit the are is on Sunday because there is the Sunday antique street market at plaza Dorrego. The market spread over Defensa street so I was walking up and down calle Defensa with thousands other visitors, locals and tourists. The vibe was great with music coming from everywhere, people having fun, dancing and shopping of course!. I couldn’t believe how many people danced tango here…
San Telmo is one of the oldest city's neighbourhoods. You can see it from the faded elegance that this area was once one of the most wealthy parts of Buenos Aires. The yellow fever epidemic at the end of the 19th century caused many to die and many others to move to parts north of the city what is now Recoleta. This left San Telmo with empty mansions that soon became home to the struggling Italian and Spanish immigrants, transforming the district into mosaic of diversity and culture. Today San Telmo has been beautifully restored, fusing the old with the new, and making it a microcosm of true porteño culture.
The labyrinth of cobblestone streets, containing traditional local cafes, book shops, antique shops and art galleries all lead to Plaza Dorrego, the oldest square in Buenos Aires which becomes an outdoor antiques market on Sundays. Tango music and dance can be enjoyed in this square or at a venue such as El Viejo Almacen, devoted to this melancholy art form. There have been some efforts to regenerate this historic district and the Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires houses experimental artwork in an old tobacco warehouse.
Due to an inexplicable sense of sensuality, colour and passion, San Telmo with Plaza Dorrego can be easily called the 'Paris of South America'.
The whole house was at one time occupied by the influential Ezeiza family. It was later subdivided into tenement apartments. Now the various courtyards are filled with shops selling antiques, curios, and vintage clothing.
The San Telmo street fair on Sunday is always fun. Hundreds of vendors line the streets with their wares: everything from jewelry to mate straws and gourds to purses and paintings. Crowds are massive and the whole street teems with energy. Duck into St Telmo Pizza for a quick, delicious bite or linger over a rowdy French Bistro experience at Brasserie Petanque.
Relax after a long tango night - check out the yoga studio of Rosy Ramirez.
She is teaching Iyengar style yoga which is also great for beginners. Classes are very small, so there is a lot of individual attention. Rosy is also an excellent shiatsu-tai therapist, i had a couple of massages and it was just great. Always call her to ask in advance whether there is space in a class, but usually you can just drop in. Shiatsu sessions you should arrange in advance.
Try it and enjoy!