Naples Local Customs

I cannot say or emphasize it enough if you are going to Italy please please PLEASE learn at least enough of the language to communicate! I studied for 6 months before our trip so I was not fluent but it made for a wonderful experience to be able to communicate. Some of the worst behavior I have ever seen was from frustrated American tourists who fully arrogantly expected the Italians to speak flawless English while they themselves did not bother to learn a word of Italian. I have found that if you show the respect of at least trying to speak the language, no matter how badly mangled you will receive a warmer reception than those red in the face who think that yelling is going to get their point across. Remember we're visiting their country, why not learn a little bit before you go? That said, in the cities English is more prevalent but where we liked to eat in the family run trattorias the only English you would hear was, "No speak English!"

Three times in a year occurs the miracle of San Gennaro, the saint that protects Naples.

The miracle dates back to 16th december 1631 when Vesuvius erupted and killed more than 3000 inhabitants, when archbishop took out his head and blood ou of the cathedral and showed the miracle, that brought on the rain and saved the rest of Naples from destruction.

On the first sunday of May (when the body of San Gennaro was brought to Naples), on 19th september (San Gennaro´s nameday) and again on 16th December, the blood of San Gennaro is exposed in Duomo and turns from powder back to real blood. The day before, a big procession carrying the saints from other churches and transporting them to Duomo.

Should the miracle fail to occur, a big disaster would hit Naples - as was the case in 1944 when Vesuvius erupted.

By the way, the miracles form an integrant part of religion in southern Italy and in Naples and the adoration of relics has a long history. In 17th century a priest did an account of the thousands of relics kept in churches in the city (among them 367 whole bodies, 54 heads, 28 elbows... add to this teeth, bones, hair, lots of blood of various saints, clothes, 5 pieces of the cross and 11 thorns of the crown...).

2 more images

These nativity scenes, known as presepi, are a Neapolitan tradition dating back to the 13th century. Over the years it has become a real art form; in the 17th century nobles would commission renowned artists to create their very own nativity scene, as can be seen in the Santa Chiara cloister and in the Museo di San Martino. But there’s no need to go to a museum to see today’s presepi – simply head to the Via San Gregorio Armeno in the Centro Storico where numerous craftsmen who specialise in this tradition have their studios and shops. We were there in November when the street was packed with families choosing their decorations for the coming festivities, but I gather that the workshops are there all year round, though the atmosphere might be a little calmer.

What makes a presepe stand out from the regular nativity scene is its scale, and the way that the holy family is placed in a setting representing old Naples, with its architecture, its people and its traditions. The best and most complex pieces will hold your attention for ages. You may see herders leading cows to the pasture, a couple sharing a meal, children playing, maybe a fight in an inn, etc. In addition to these ordinary scenes, and the focal point always of the nativity itself, Neapolitans have for over 200 years included figures of people who made news during the year, such as a politician or celebrity – I read of Paverotti, Princess Diana, Mother Teresa and Elvis all being “honoured” in this way, though I didn’t see any examples.

During the 19th century the presepe became a standard Christmas fixture for most homes, when poorer families created their own scenes with miniature chalk, terracotta and papier-maché figures. Today on the Via San Gregorio Armeno you can see not only the workshops where skilled craftsmen produce these scenes but everything you need to create your own at home: little rocks, bark and wood, streams with flowing water powered by tiny motors, balustrades and columns, and figures of all kinds.

1 more image

Pulcinella, often called Punch in English is a classical character that originated in the Commedia dell' Arte of the 17th century and became a stock character in Neapolitan puppetry. His name comes from his long beaked nose. His creation is sometimes attributed to an unknown Naples man in the early 1400's. Dressed a white hat, a white dress, and black shoes, and covering his face with a black mask, he would walk around Naples poking fun at the rich and the people in power. Life in Naples at his time wasn’t easy; the city suffered from economic and social depression and was often under the rule of many different kings. Because he helped people to forget about their problems, if only for a moment, Pulcinella became one of the most cherished symbols of Naples. Later he developed into the traditional crafty and rather vicious character we recognise as the English Punch, but the real Pulcinella is considered an archetype of humanity, with all its complex and contradictory features.

We saw several “Pulcinella” on the streets of the Centro Storico – this one was a street performer, another was working to attract visitors to a Christmas crib workshop in the Via San Gregorio Armeno, another busy luring people into a restaurant. I also spotted the masks for sale in several shops, in case you fancy acting out the role back home, as well as the more Venetian looking masks in my second photo.

If like me you enjoy trying local delicacies and drinks when visiting places, you’ll want to sample a limoncello. This is a lemon liqueur produced in Southern Italy, especially in this area around the Gulf of Naples and the coast of Amalfi and islands of Procida, Ischia and Capri, but also in Sicily and Sardinia. It is made from lemon rinds, alcohol, water, and sugar. It is bright yellow in colour and I found it a little sweet for my taste – I expected sharpness but although it is lemony, it doesn’t have any lemon juice in it, only the rinds.

Limoncello is served chilled and is a refreshing after-dinner choice, especially if you like a little sweetness in your drinks. I was pleased to have the chance to try one, but after our first evening reverted to my favourite Italian digestivo, Grappa.

You can read more about it, and get some interesting recipes for using limoncello, at http://www.limoncello.com/en/index.html (focuses on the limoncello of Capri but interesting nevertheless, and it’s all the same drink really).

Pizzelle fritte, or montanare, are a variation on the pizza theme: tiny and fried pieces of pizza dough, with a nice and well dressed tomato sauce and parmesan cheese on the top.
You must try because it is real Napolitano food and it is delouses.

As I walked the strand along the Bay of Naples at any time of day but especially at night there were many young couples making out.

I noticed that they would camp out at particular spot day after day. When I looked closer I noticed that they had placed a lock around the lightposts with their initials written on it as a gesture of the everlasting love, locking their hearts together.

I first saw this "profession" at work while in Sicily. The man on the street I saw outside my hotel here in Naples was at the height of this profession.

I watched him as he greeted everyone who walked down the street, everyone seemed to know him. He would tell jokes, say hello to little baby's in strollers, walk old men arm-to-arm down the busy street. He was a maestro, he conducted all the events on this little street corner with ease.

He parked cars and walked with confidence up and down the street. I wish I had a photo to remember this guy. I guess he made a living at this or at least felt important.